View Full Version : '55 Chevy 3800 Cummins
i can't remember if this update ever hit the sheets or not, but this is where i'm at! she's been put away in storage for a while, at least inside til i find a new shop. front clip is on but needs some adjusting. with the engine having to move back 6" making me do all the sheet metal work anyways, i'm pretty sure i'll drop all the body mounts 3" to slam the body now too. front dually wheels will also narrow the truck a LOT to allow the tires to tuck vs eating the fenders. either way though, that's a '55 with a cummins under it's hood.
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/19055641_10100717564142567_3538981413587607453_o.j pg?oh=04176e6ec0bd1b4692ca9ac4c09150dd&oe=5A4EBBB2
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20294571_10100753958178627_1590906783868977336_n.j pg?oh=c081ee37b557189b4386925e657ea41b&oe=5A42D63C
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20264837_10100753958298387_7679071346231241907_n.j pg?oh=819b062286e82babc7f8e0193241d9e0&oe=5A5CAF63
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20620926_10100761277106437_7820137704152117971_n.j pg?oh=3661fa954a6c1dd94c3254ab67e9486c&oe=5A5E8C3F
time to bring this back!
so while she's been in storage, my plans for this truck have changed a little. i was just building a truck to play with before, but now i want something i can show and use. the 96 ram chassis is going away. the front suspension is not good, there are ZERO parts available, i already have to redo every mount for the body/engine n trans, it looks bad, etc.
so now i want to build something i can really use. drive, show, tow, etc. so i decided i'm going back to a GM C30 front suspension, just like the c10 stuff i built before but more beef. lots of upgrades available. also now that i've built 2 air bag IFS, 3rd times the charm and i'm going to change it up a bit from what i've learned.
i FINALLY found the IFS parts i've been looking for cheap. no way i'm spending $3k on an all new setup, i really only needed the cross member, but i found a whole chassis. early 80s 3+3 1-ton chassis that someone converted to a dually rear since the front is SRW hubs. $100 for the whole thing. AND i got the rear bumper i've been wanting!
i get to measuring and this frame is WAY closer to what i was going to build. i need to look over things more, but i very well might keep this entire chassis including the saddle tanks. if i do that, i'll get it running and driving on the current springs without cutting any length out even. then build from there.
https://i.imgur.com/WyBSrA3.jpg
Cobound
01-02-2020, 08:16 AM
Now this is one worth bringing back...light it up :rock:
i just found out this was a thing! mechanical spring starter, just wind it up and let it go.
i really think i need this in my life, would be awesome in the '55. zero electrical needed to start and drive the truck.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcWj02xB3pU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0I-EHsmkME
xj_man_646
01-06-2020, 01:55 PM
I can't imagine a worse automotive starting procedure. Model T even beats that method out by 10x speed or more.
Can you imagine doing that over and over again trying to diagnose a problem? Or doing it out in any sort of cold weather?
Its fine when the engine is out in the open...but in an engine bay...fukk that.
You're still going to have a basic electrical system for lights and such. Just run a normal starter.
Cobound
01-06-2020, 02:18 PM
Figured, someone that beats off like you do, that should be a nice little workout engine :lol:
Uh, on a serious note, HELL NO :lol:
buzz-kill, you guys are no fun
after 2.5 years locked up, its free!!!
https://i.imgur.com/QEFY8Dk.jpg
well, almost a year since i unloaded it, it's almost time to get back to building. started gathering parts, and started to un-burry the truck. yes, i was way more packed in ...
i snagged the IFS cross member off the c30 chassis, and the rear bumper ... threw the 14b behind the shed ... and scrapped the rest. i've decided this truck needs to be tight and right, not just a rat. while doing that i'm going to try to not just throw money at it though, i guess we'll see. for what i'm doing i don't think i needed to spend an extra $3k on the front suspension, so it's all new but "all stock" '78 c30.
obviously the air bags vs coils, no going back on making this thing low. proper low. i ordered the 3" lowering spindles this time. trial and error learned i need them after messing with the C10 IFS geometry the first go-around.
https://i.imgur.com/jJvuDrQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pA3rdxY.jpg
nblehm
10-25-2020, 11:05 AM
Get er done, will be sweet when its all together. We can race, you get this driving or I get my wagoneer running and driving :lol:
Get er done, will be sweet when its all together. We can race, you get this driving or I get my wagoneer running and driving :lol:
you know i'm in! take bets now, perfect excuse for a road trip.
So the tires on it from the Ram are the exact size i'm getting to build with, and i've decided that i like the front wheel placement in the opening. the rear however needs stretched more. more wheel base and getting the axle close to the hitch will both help towing. so i've moved the fender as far back on the bed as i can, was a 10.5" move. with a tire shift in the wheel opening too, i should be right at 12" stretch. will have the same wheelbase as my GMC, but the hitch closer to the axle.
it's a good thing i bought 2 fuel cells to make the tank with, they will not get split up and made into saddle tanks.
https://i.imgur.com/tTva6pM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/O0Sy1WI.jpg
picked the wheels i'm going with FINALLY. so it was time to start checking fit and clearance before i bought em. the one big difference i'm doing in the front is to run the dually wheel, but not a dually hub. this will let me run a hub extension of the width i choose, vs what GM made. and i don't feel too bad with 8lug or that OEM's do it.
so the standard dually extension is about 4.5". i plan to use a basic 2" wheel spacer instead. this will narrow the front end by 5" to fit under the narrower front clip of the 55. the old stock wheels off my GMC are the same 17" AL, but are only 5.37" back spacing vs the new dually wheels 7.87". With the 2" spacer the back face of the dually wheel will be 0.5" more inboard that pictured with the GMC wheels. should be just about perfect! lots of brake, upper ball joint, and steering clearance, and just enough lower ball joint clearance in the worst case of travel. and yes, the wheels i chose were in part chosen because the wheel face ties into the lip vs back in the barrel to give more caliper clearance for this narrowing.
another note is that i'm really glad i am now using all C30 parts vs the c10 bits i started with WAY back. these parts are WAY heavier, just more beef everywhere. including solid, yes solid factory control arm bushings.
https://i.imgur.com/UgLPyhO.png
https://i.imgur.com/fDj2WQk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WEX1oth.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fSvu1RG.jpg
started to science out the front suspension and alignment set up vs max travel. i need to draw a line in the sand so i know how tall the step in the frame will be. this also requires having both new front tires/wheels ... coming soon.
total travel:
factory C30 bump to bump (not including bump compression) - 4.5"
LCA bump and bump mount removed, UCA bump removed - 10.5"
i believe max travel limited by the upper ball joint was 12" when i did it before. this time i am trying to limit crazy camber and keep within a driveable range as much as possible, so the mods are a bit different. without a pie cut on the UCA, the ball joint is the compression limit. droop is stopped when the UCA hits the cross member, but i think i can clearance it some for a bit more.
for comparison:
C7 vetter is 5.25" factory to the rocker, probably 4.75" under it, and 3.75" at the from rubber air dam.
i set up this suspension for 0 camber at 6" above full compression, or 6" of ground clearance. this gave me -4.5deg camber at full compression, not bad really and can actually help with fit inside the fender. i also have a max thru full travel of +0.5deg, totally driveable. from 3" above full compression to max, i have a minimum of -1.5deg camber, also very driveable. spend most of my driving at 6", then anything above or below shouldn't wear the tires enough for me to care. even getting into some negative camber when lower with good "camber gain" at a sporty lower height :lol:
https://i.imgur.com/qibGRVK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/V4IM9kq.jpg
xj_man_646
11-02-2020, 12:45 PM
Unrelated note...what floor jack is that? I need one.
Unrelated note...what floor jack is that? I need one.
she isn't exactly cheap ... but toootally worth it!
now that i have to swap the tires on the YJ every time it goes in or out of the enclosed trailer, i needed a jack that would work anywhere easy. it's also rolls too easy really, it'll roll away down my 1/8" /ft garage floor! but also makes moving a vehicle on it super easy too. came with the short extension, and i bought the taller one with it. i can jack up the YJ by the bumper and get the 40s off the ground.
https://www.proeagle.com/collections/all-jacks/products/3-ton-big-wheel-jack-kratos
xj_man_646
11-02-2020, 04:29 PM
Wow you're not kidding but that is sweet!
it's the ultra4 car of jacks
Cobound
11-04-2020, 02:54 PM
Yeah, I saw one out at the Hammers, as well as Moab...as much as I wanted one, man I just don't use them enough to justify the cost :james:
After working on the Jeep this weekend tho, if I did that regularly I'd have one, no question!
woohoo! got my first wheel to check fit! not only does it look really good i think, but it should also fit really well to help me narrow the truck. the tire behind the wheel is the size i'm using, so it's a really a good representative picture. only difference is it's sitting at about 15" and normal height will be 6".
brake clearance is great to the massive 1-ton calipers, this would have never happened with steel wheels. the ONLY clearance issue is with the LCA, and only on one side. the LCA lip rolls out and is really thick there, so with a simple welded-in stiffening rib to the bottom side, i can simply clearance what i need. my goal is 45deg of steering thru the full travel. that might get limited by fender clearance, we'll see how that goes.
https://i.imgur.com/MZrbDyC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/niBCnDO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5DHelPf.jpg
i think I'm linking how this is coming out so far. Still needs a lot of detail work, dimension checking, and the obvious front frame horns, but getting there! at this point i'm pretty sure this will be more than sturdy enough for me to do work.
started running numbers for the rear links and ended up really changing up my plan. when i started this i was actually at nearly 150% anti-squat. dialed it in a bit, added some adjustment, and i should be able to achieve 90-120% now. links ended up only 6" longer than stock c10.
https://i.imgur.com/iZVK91K.jpg
a lot happened today
https://i.imgur.com/FIJOoVm.jpg
a few missing details, but i think this chassis is close to wrapped from the firewall back. now time to focus on the front. the odd channel brackets are for saddle style fuel cells.
https://i.imgur.com/HFngXhV.jpg
nblehm
11-26-2020, 02:22 PM
This is going to be rad.
i think that's pretty much a wrap! got all the IFS crossmember mounting dialed in and the frame connectors built. now to start detailing out drawings and such to have all the plate cut.
https://i.imgur.com/Ke3jFym.jpg
Cobound
11-30-2020, 01:51 PM
That is going to be so bad ass :rock:
Oh, and again, that jack :drool:
:lol:
ordered all the steel for the chassis today! was $536 delivered from MetalDepot.com, $527 picked up locally, or $385 picked up an hour away. i'm driving for it!
tires get put on the wheels Tuesday, that's when i can final double confirm the chassis and start the fab. had to move the rear most bags inboard b/c of a wheel clearance.
Colin said he could cut all my plate early Jan, but that shouldn't hold me up at all getting things together.
https://i.imgur.com/btiNJuQ.jpg
Cobound
12-03-2020, 11:48 PM
:rock:
started actual chassis fab yesterday with the tube work. got everything bent, notched, and cleaned up. even bent up some stuff for a buddy to build a TJ belly pan / engine skid.
https://i.imgur.com/UF3TU9j.jpg
xj_man_646
12-07-2020, 09:53 AM
Did you model the engine and rear end or was that sourced from somewhere?
Looks pretty sweet!
Baby peez
12-07-2020, 10:38 AM
What kind of joint do you use between the diff cover and that z thing to have play due to the fixed mount on those "lower" links?
What do you call that style suspension?
Did you model the engine and rear end or was that sourced from somewhere?
Looks pretty sweet!
found em online! the 14b was from the FB group for offroad CAD, while the cummins was a dropbox link i found in a forum from like 2015 that still worked!
xj_man_646
12-07-2020, 03:07 PM
What do you call that style suspension?
Watts link suspension! Basically does what a panhard bar does, without any lateral movement of the axle with suspension travel.
What kind of joint do you use between the diff cover and that z thing to have play due to the fixed mount on those "lower" links?
What do you call that style suspension?
this version of a radius arm suspension is generally called a "truck arm" setup. factory to C10 trucks, and used in NASCAR. my links are actually only 6" longer than a factory C10. the little extra length was what allowed me to dial in the anti-squat numbers.
just to try something different, and because i wanted a lot of suspension travel with the tires tucked tight to the fenders, i went with the WATTs link instead of the panhard bar. over 15" of travel, my links induce only about 0.07" lateral motion. it has standard poly bushings on the frame side of the links and heims at the pivot link. the center pivot is a big-ol Johnny joint. was easy to fab with, and allows the link to rotate some with the travel while still being a stiff joint. when i was designing it i went back n forth with Sean over that fact that it being able to pivot could also induce some extra lateral motion. per the geometry, it's less than 0.1" so i suspect no bad effects. but i've been wrong before, and we are going to find out!
that part of the suspension i designed and built in 2017 :eek: it'll be moved over to the new chassis.
https://i.imgur.com/XwBoMrH.jpg
Baby peez
12-08-2020, 09:06 AM
Nice! Thanks
got the chassis wrapped up in 3D and got the steel a few days ago. did a quick mock-up for motivation and to check a few last minute dim's before cutting the last chassis in half to save a few bits. the C30 IFS is 3"+ narrower than the ram suspension currently under the truck. the mock-up picture is at that chassis' max drop, what should be about 3" below ride for the new chassis. not going to say i'll never rub a fender with the tire, but shouldn't be too bad.
i'm also super glad that i'm taking the time to properly slam this truck. i think i'd have always been pissed driving around with that as my max drop. having spend all the time building to have only gone half way.
https://i.imgur.com/6XBu2A7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rMDXVcs.jpg
nblehm
12-13-2020, 08:32 AM
So are the rockers going to touch the ground on the new chassis? Thanks for the build thread, it is motivating me to get out in the garage and work on some projects. Also this is further fueling my want to build a jeep cab ramp truck, that will sadly have to wait til I have a different house, I have nowhere I could park or build something like that here.
go build! i'll race ya to first drive.
So are the rockers going to touch the ground on the new chassis? Thanks for the build thread, it is motivating me to get out in the garage and work on some projects. Also this is further fueling my want to build a jeep cab ramp truck, that will sadly have to wait til I have a different house, I have nowhere I could park or build something like that here.
"yes" ... i'm building it to have the rocker 0.5" above the bottom of the frame, and the frame on the ground at the same time as suspension end of travel. i'll then add 0.25" bump pads in the suspension above bind for a minimum level of safety against uneven parking.
as of the mock-up, i'm hoping to set the ride at about 8" above bump for more steering clearance. really there shouldn't be anything mechanically limiting me from that, but we'll see how it rides and the geometry changes once aligned.
did some smashing on steel this weekend to get the huge sticks off the floor. even remembered to lay out the riser so that the seams would line up. :pimp:
ordered 1 stick of 6x2x0.25, came in 24ft mill stock. i never actually measured it, but we're good, i only had 1" left over!! damn thing is that 1" cost me $1 :james: :lol: i nested all the 22.5deg cuts to save steel and make less cuts and it's a good thing. i knew i'd consume 23'6" ish before cut widths.
putting a full round on 4" c-channel is kind of a b!tch, but i think the effect was worth the effort. it's for the body mounts, so that cut will be hanging out on it's own. i also hate grinding this much, but without a huge drop-arm band saw i wasn't getting the cut precision in the 6x2. the ceiling mounted air filter was a HUGE win.
https://i.imgur.com/hSU0idd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xy1hWlx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RiQElb8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/W5cKYql.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zmlM7H6.jpg
Cobound
12-14-2020, 11:22 AM
Lining the seams up, next level detail...super nice!
Cool sweatshirt, bro...see you there in February?
...see you there in February?
i'd like to, but probably not
nblehm
12-14-2020, 01:20 PM
1" to spare. Nice. I would have ****ed up one of the cuts and had to buy another stick
**ignore this, just compiling for reference**
at some point:
https://www.garrettmotion.com/news/newsroom/article/old-smokey-f-1-how-to-make-clouds-with-1400-horsepower/
TURBOCHARGER(S)
Turbocharger: Garrett GTX5009R
Frame: GT50
Compressor Wheel Specs: 80mm Inducer, 108mm Exducer, 55 Trim, .69 A/R
Turbine Wheel Specs: 99mm Inducer, 91mm Exducer, 84 Trim
Turbine Housing: T6 .96 A/R
Turbocharger: Garrett GTX5533R Gen 2
Frame: GT55
Compressor Wheel Specs: 94mm Inducer, 133mm Exducer, 50 Trim, .96 A/R
Turbine Wheel Specs: 112mm Inducer, 102mm Exducer, 84 Trim
Turbine Housing: T6 1.24 A/R
Peak Boost: 106psi
***
2019 pikes peak:
https://www.dieselarmy.com/news/chuckles-garage-old-smokey-f1-hits-pikes-peak-with-toyo-tires/
The compounds on board are a Garrett GTX 58MM secondary charger fed by a Garrett GTX 70-MM atmosphere turbo. That may not seem all that enormous, but its enough for what they’re setting out to do.
If you were to put a more traditional “big power” set of compounds on this truck, at this elevation, it wouldn’t have the excellent acceleration they’re after. In fact, prior to Pikes Peak, Smokey had a larger 80-MM / 106-MM combination.
***
2020 pikes peak:
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2020/09/dotw-stage-2-6-7l-twin-turbo-cummins/
twin Garrett turbochargers on it – a G42-1450 for the big one and a GTW3884 for the small one – those are 80mm and 67mm.
Old Smokey’s 6.7L Cummins is what Freedom Racing Engines calls its Stage 2 build. It’s a 6.7L bored .020˝ over and was drilled and tapped for 14x2mm head studs and the mains were drilled and tapped for 9/16ths main bolts. The block was also line bored for cam bearings throughout the entire cam tunnel and features a Hamilton Cams 188/220 camshaft
Cobound
12-21-2020, 12:18 PM
:lol:
smashed out some progress! i don't know why, but i love the frame "kit" picture.
i also managed to fixture the main rails and get the rear legs welded on before realizing they were backwards :james: the miter at the front end went out vs in. lucky for me, i still need to cut the rear to length, so i just re-mitered the front and lost 1/2". redid the 3D and we're good.
https://i.imgur.com/pUPLjP0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PoYhvJ8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2juDgcz.jpg
and tonight it's a whole thing! tack welded and ready to start crossmembers. also need to get Colin to cut my plate soon!
https://i.imgur.com/4RCOfCO.jpg
nblehm
12-23-2020, 08:44 PM
So why the little extension pieces in the middle of the bends instead of just making one steeper miter cut? Stronger to have 2 joints and less angle than 1 steep joint?
So why the little extension pieces in the middle of the bends instead of just making one steeper miter cut? Stronger to have 2 joints and less angle than 1 steep joint?
Its a compound miter in multiple planes, the down leg wouldn't be "virtical" or seam well without. I tried for hours to fudge it close, but with fish plates this will just be cleaner, look better, and ultimately shouldn't be any weaker. Just another joint. Tue plates cover all 3 pc of each bend with one plate.
Sir Sam
12-27-2020, 03:31 PM
I’ll say it again. You ought to get the chassis galvanized when you are done.
been doing a lot of prep work on all kinds of parts from the trans crossmember to the fuel tank mounts. re-designed the mounting of the crossmember though. this new design doesn't require drilling into the frame, will hold weight with no nuts on the bolts still, and can be removed down or back with no binding. no it's not double shear, but the loading doesn't require it at all, and not having to slot the bushings will make everything easier.
i've also been doing a fait bit of welding on the frame, and even got the rear brakes set up. 2008 GMC 3500 rear rotors, standard 14B studs, GM 3/4 ton D52 calipers, and BTF weld on brackets that have been in my shelf for like 10 years. the studs are a tiny bit sloppy to the rotor holes, so i wrapped a little tap on 2 studs to center them before pinning them in place with all 8 studs. nothing should move, Pirate4x4 couldn't even argue it works great, but another one of those "i guess we'll find out". i didn't feel like having custom sleeves machined if i didn't need to. had shims between the rotor and the caliper, more shims caliper to bracket, new pads, then made an adapter to hook the caliper to my air compressor. held everything square n tight while i tacked em in. yes the bleeders will be on the right side when actually installed, and they are installed below the axle to make sure they don't have any chance to hit the frame on articulation. looks weird to me though since i'm normally trying to keep them high from hitting rocks. lots of wheel clearance, so game on.
https://i.imgur.com/r1uWx3L.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/peK5M5G.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ezOELvl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XNKMYea.jpg
Got the rear links as far as I can until I get plate to keep going with bag mounts and the link mounts themselves. I even managed to not warp the thread insert!!! For reference I used a 1-1/4" threaded bushing.
https://i.imgur.com/1BNF891.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oKB6Dh7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mrY3ATR.jpg
Seat choices ... thoughts?
so i came down to 2 final selections, but only 1 is really an option. the Iron Ace bomber seat is hands down the seat that best fits this build, but at over $2000 there's just no way. a PRP bench however, kustum designed with the black/grey and blue stitching/piping is only just over $500. should be more comfortable and still fit the build pretty good.
https://i.imgur.com/7KbJa7d.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ij7Mgu1.jpg
more progress happening! got the transmission crossmember totally welded up. once the engine and trans are fit into the chassis/body i'll make the bushing mount then. got the gas tank mounts mostly built up n ready to weld to the frame when the time comes. i still need to figure out a strap set-up though.
my new air fittings finally arrived! i was able to mock up the front end for the first time complete and watch it travel. other than the wheel to LCA clearance turning that i already knew about, it's game on. of course, as soon as i did that, i tore it all completely apart. LCA mods, and without the crossmember was MUCH easier and cleaner to fixture on the front frame horns. i decided after i started building that i would use the stock style steering, but i NEVER would have guessed that the frame needed to hold it would be straight off the way it is. next frame i'd make the 6x2 longer and have the steering and cross member in the same layout. oh well, this does have space saving benefits at the core support body mount.
finally i started to prep the frame for the fish plates. i normally don't like to grind welds, but can't add plates without it flat. of course it's hard to just end the grind, so i carried it over the ends too. the top however i went back and tacked in to fill the weld under-cut witness lines and re-ground them.
i also started to modify the front LCAs with stiffening gussets before i chop out clearance for the wheels to turn more, but i'll post that when done.
https://i.imgur.com/c5sFgm5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yhfajHZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AUvQjeI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/p5XlZX6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vZBn1kq.jpg
xj_man_646
01-11-2021, 08:02 AM
Seat choices ... thoughts?
so i came down to 2 final selections, but only 1 is really an option. the Iron Ace bomber seat is hands down the seat that best fits this build, but at over $2000 there's just no way. a PRP bench however, kustum designed with the black/grey and blue stitching/piping is only just over $500. should be more comfortable and still fit the build pretty good.
https://i.imgur.com/7KbJa7d.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ij7Mgu1.jpg
The top seat looks like it might be tough to have happy fun times on the road with. Jussayin' :lol:.
xj_man_646
01-11-2021, 08:04 AM
Progress is looking pretty good too!
Cobound
01-11-2021, 12:17 PM
Ace Bomber looks killer, always loved seeing them in rods, but they don't look all too long ride comfy. You got skills, make them.
I'd go w/ a comfy seat, myself, if you plan on driving it more than down the street.
Sweet progress, damn you and Damon got some mad skills!
nblehm
01-11-2021, 01:09 PM
Yeah that first seat looks terrible to sit in. No thanks
first up was another mod to the LCAs for steering. the extreme back spacing coupled with the extended travel got the wheels into the outer lip of the CA that's turned up. so i went about adding some gussets inside and under the arm before cutting back that clearance. i chopped the lip back about 3".
at this point the LCAs should only need a bump stop added to be all set. i am also however having a clearance issue with the UCA and the Belltech brake caliper mount gusset on the knuckle. currently that's my next steering stop. and should be the last clearance issue to get the full range of steering out of this box/geometry. full range is just better than 35deg i think, and that's not bad. the sheet metal will still be a limit depending on height though, stay tuned with me to find out how much. haha
then got everything back together to re-test just as my steering box showed up finally. so the steering is all on there and making sure i got it in the right spot.
https://i.imgur.com/jSgcuy2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mgbybis.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6DoVRQH.jpg
soooooo ... seats ... Iron Ace is out for cost, but now PRP is out cuz they said 10-12wk lead time.
found myself a 2002 Yukon 2nd tow seat somewhat local for $75. should be super comfy, has a console with cup holders while still being a bench, and has a foldable back even. just ugly old light tan. i'm trying to find a custom designed reupholster kit for it vs just a cover.
https://i.imgur.com/ptCf8HW.jpg
so i'm looking for a patina set of something like these
https://img.scgpix.com/listimg/img1_0915/15/img_fycL6jx0M7.jpg
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/3LvWfpDZGSI/hqdefault.jpg
i guess worst case i can still get new ones for pretty cheap and just paint them off-white.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ksc-h3641#
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/ksc-h3641_ml.jpg
Cobound
01-13-2021, 12:30 PM
10-12 wait, how soon you gonna be ready to mount them?
10-12 wait, how soon you gonna be ready to mount them?
my goal is still to have the cab on the chassis before the end of this month. once that happens i need to get the new pedal assembly in there. i have the steering column, but need a seat to place both at the same time for a cumfy driving position. then some overly complicated seat mount, and i need the column in place to be able to fab up the clutch pedal and where that will mount on the firewall, plus the rest of the steering shaft fab.
i won't run hoses n wires before i blow it all apart for final clean-up n paint, but that kinda stuff has to be done. my goal is still to drive this in the spring.
Sir Sam
01-13-2021, 02:33 PM
If the leather is in overall good shape consider talking to shop who refurbs leather seats, they can basically redye the leather a whole new color and make them look like new. Common practice when restoring leather seats on higher end vehicles.
Sir Sam
01-13-2021, 02:35 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdBlM6kfkT0&ab_channel=WheelerDealers
If the leather is in overall good shape consider talking to shop who refurbs leather seats, they can basically redye the leather a whole new color and make them look like new. Common practice when restoring leather seats on higher end vehicles.
interesting thought!
i did get the seat, $60, and is actually a white-tan that goes reasonably well with the truck. I'm happy enough for now to not bother with it, so that's a win. the seat is also 1/2" shy of the door on each, and tucks perfectly into the rear cab corners, it's literally MADE for this truck!! though, you'll notice i cut the head rest posts off. they still need some love eventually.
mounting brackets on the other hand will be the trick. i've convinced myself that the tubes under the seat are only there for a GM factory assembly aid, and serve no structural purpose once bolted to the floor. will require that i take the time to align everything well, and the auto-release seat back latch won't work because the cable mount will go away, but that's fine. fwd hinge bracket will get bolted to the floor directly in front of the rib, while the back will get bolted directly to the rear rib that is under the boards. same angle mounting as pictured, just lower.
passenger seat folds just like the drivers side. great access for putting tools n junk back there. maybe even a weekend duffle bag so it's not in the bed on a trip.
https://i.imgur.com/pF0a1zr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JNyKQpy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oSgdhVX.jpg
man ... if you were only 57" tall that might make a nice camping bed :lol:
BOOM! Time to play
https://i.imgur.com/pk7bZpe.jpg
Cobound
01-18-2021, 10:10 AM
Damn, all that and you don't already have your own plasma cutter :dunno:
That HAD to be a heavy box :eek:
Damn, all that and you don't already have your own plasma cutter :dunno:
That HAD to be a heavy box :eek:
:roflmao: it was quite heavy!
i've looked into getting my own plasma table before, but with access to Colin's it's just not worth it yet. eventually i'd love to have my own for sure!
started knocking out fitting the plate on. ended up spending 1.5h trying to find what was off when i measured the wheelbase and it was off. turns out the frame and crossmember and true n square (<1/8" over the whole thing), i better placed the rear axle, and the front suspension that i never did an alignment on ... needs an alignment :lol:
tonight i hope to get the WATTs link in place, and maybe even the first set of bag mounts. once it can support it's own weight, then i'll drop on the body mounts. I'm pretty sure i want to get all the fish plates at least hard tacked in place before i drop the body on too. but my goal is still to have the body n front clip on the rolling chassis before the end of the Jan.
https://i.imgur.com/ylhv8IX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CfOZZE5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/w1ZC5kQ.jpg
so i was in my gun safe today, the new one with the "antique clear" finish ... and i think i'm going to just clear coat this frame when it's done. see all the welds, finished area, etc.
thoughts?
yes Sam, i know, galvanized ... but the clear chassis should look pretty sweet against the patina body.
Cobound
01-19-2021, 06:04 PM
Bare industrial metal guy here. Bare it, see it, share it.
got the Watt's back in place, feels good to have the rear axle fully constrained again.
started to assemble the bag mounts, and did a test fit of the fish plates. for a size comparison, i do NOT have small hands ;)
https://i.imgur.com/Kpa4pyT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/u7MqThN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pVxatOn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XjJ8mGJ.jpg
Sir Sam
01-20-2021, 08:20 AM
Galvanized industrial finish would look pretty sweet against the patina body.
:pimp:
https://i.imgur.com/I7WzwJL.jpg
Cobound
01-20-2021, 10:42 PM
:rock:
after a minor adjustment to the watt's brace that i put in the wrong spot, she'll lay out. full drop, full lock-to-lock steering is still good. lots of frame clearance, but touch the steering box by THAT much :lol: ride height has 1/2" clearance, and the sheet metal won't let me steer that far at drop anyways.
i'm also reasonably impressed by the steering angle i'm getting out of the stock parts. this 35deg+ will be 1000x better than the old Ram chassis.
https://i.imgur.com/Fp6TT2l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2idO9YP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EBKwAl2.jpg
Im freaking out, I'm so excited!! It freaking sits peeeerrrfect.
https://i.imgur.com/B06lnRv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BkcO8We.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KeLV2xt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b4rXWAF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qBZXrRo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qpm29Dc.jpg
nblehm
01-21-2021, 09:33 PM
Dude!
i hope to dry-fit the front clip here today. ran out of energy and wife-patience-assistance last night. :lol:
i'm afraid that i'm quickly getting to the end of the big milestones that are exciting and picture worthy. now comes that part where you have to actually make it work.
Hoofmann
01-22-2021, 10:15 AM
Freaking sweet!
Cobound
01-22-2021, 04:15 PM
This and Damon's builds are so incredibly bad ass!
Yeah, now all the tedious small stuff and finishing details come in...yowza!! For something that sat for so long, you made some pretty quick work out of things!
xj_man_646
01-25-2021, 07:32 AM
I think there is a huge advantage to taking the time to model it out before cutting any steel. I wish I still had access to and knew how to use CAD...haven't touched it in 12ish years. Still, impressive for sure. It would take me a year to do all that work :lol:
Friday evening i got the front clip situated on there and got to making plans for how to move fwd with it. tire fitment was good but needed help and the core support mounts need re-done.
but it looks soooooo gooooood.
https://i.imgur.com/7lrY92c.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ETl5roE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XE7Nu0g.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5KeNMXX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/42GzlMV.jpg
to anyone who thought i was going to be eating fender steering, you weren't wrong!
so straight on the tires tuck great, and obviously at full drop the sheet metal is going to limit my steering. however, i was more limited at ride than i expected so i need to go a little further than just a lip trim.
since every little bit counts, i started messing with a body lift. 1/4" didn't change much, and 1/2" you could tell there was significantly more under rocker gap, so she's now sitting with a 3/8" spacer on the body mounts.
next was the wheel spacers, could i pull them in even more? since the sheet metal is my steering limit at drop and i now know where that is, it looks like my current clearances will allow me to narrow it another 1/2" per side. so i have ordered some 1.5" wheel spacers that'll be here today. this should be a big change up there. enough of a change that it'll most likely require that i "tub" the inner wheel well.
then the fender trimming itself, i channeled my Jeep Cherokee Fender trimming experience from college when i did more than i can remember and got to it. the fender lip that sticks in has 3 sections to vs a full round. i trimmed 2/3 of that lip off at the outer bend line, leaving only a minor flange. then to the dismay of my forearm, i hammered that little seam up and out of the way. this rolled lip leaves the fender just as stiff as factory, with significantly more clearance, but also with a clean finished edge that's still painted and won't ever cut a tire.
finally i think i'm going to have to invest in an air management system with height sensors. that'll make sure i'm always at full ride when tooling around town, but also make it easy to lower for a softer ride on the highway. excuses for more toys ... aw shucks.
as it sits now without the new wheel spacers, i can now get my full hand between the tires and fender at steering lock at 8" ride. at 3" ride i still have enough steering to change lanes quickly on the highway, but never plan to drive it that low for more than a picture.
https://i.imgur.com/nLf1wHS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lSr2RvO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/f2biHnI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/f9p0we0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cCwEKui.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HuofP90.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lE0hTGR.jpg
Cobound
01-25-2021, 11:07 AM
Things are never easy, right?! Bummer, that factory edge looks nice, but doesn't look like you took a whole lot off...looks like a good trim! Kinda not even noticed since you have the outer lip still there :thumbsup:
Things are never easy, right?! Bummer, that factory edge looks nice, but doesn't look like you took a whole lot off...looks like a good trim! Kinda not even noticed since you have the outer lip still there :thumbsup:
my new wheel spacers will be in this evening and i'll get new pictures up. but with it being so low, you never notice the missing inner lip unless you know to look for it.
xj_man_646
01-25-2021, 12:32 PM
Why is it that you needed wheel spacers in the first place? I can't recall. Keep the tires out of the steering / suspension?
The clearance issues you're experiencing is why aftermarket front end kits for slammed trucks involve a substantially narrower track width.
Why is it that you needed wheel spacers in the first place? I can't recall. Keep the tires out of the steering / suspension?
The clearance issues you're experiencing is why aftermarket front end kits for slammed trucks involve a substantially narrower track width.
i'm running dually wheels on SRW hubs. the normal dually spacer is 4.5", so using a 1.5" i've been able to narrow the track width by 6"!!
this really did require the wheels i have, and a good bit of control arm massaging as well. the wheel center on these hits the barrel way out at the lip, not inside like usual. this gave me WAY more caliper clearance. if you look back though, i had to clearance the LCA from hitting the wheel at drop since the inner lip is right at the balljoint pivot now.
so amazon got me the wheel spacers next-freakin-day, and i got them on last night. looks like this helped, and i'm going to call this good enough to move on.
my justification:
- anything lower than ride is fender limited ... cuz form > function?!?!
- at 3" i have enough steering to probably drive a normal road.
- at 8+" ride i get full lock with bump clearance, and you only use that going slow anyways, so unless i'm parking in a ditch and articulated the clearance should be good.
-if i am parking in a ditch, i can just inflate the bag stiff enough that the front doesn't articulate.
Ride @ 8.5":
https://i.imgur.com/z1MRFPK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5dMKlo1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4ne5ZcQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qNAZXg7.jpg
full drop:
https://i.imgur.com/NovNcNf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iGVKOXH.jpg
Ride @ 3"
https://i.imgur.com/b76yzN3.jpg
Rear isn't actually that wide vs the body for a dually.
https://i.imgur.com/bf2017b.jpg
Sir Sam
01-28-2021, 09:31 AM
Looks good.
Cobound
01-28-2021, 11:11 AM
I'm kinda in love w/ the thing, really dig that wheel/tire choice, too. I love builds in general, especially as I don't do them but appreciate all the work and finish details that go into them. Miss my uncle even when I see these sorts of things...really need to get to Back To The 50's in St Paul, MN some time you're done w/ it!!
An old neighbor buddy of mine is a builder, he's done some incredible work, too...man, big props! :rock:
thanks!
i updated my cost sheet with a "gearhead math" cost and an actual cost to build. the difference being basically all iterations of the project including anywhere i made/lost money changing plans.
i started with the 6400 ... sold it for a +$2000 profit
then got this 3800 ... -$610into it after selling the engine/trans and seat
parted out a 4th gen camaro for a t56 that i later sold ... total part-out +$500 profit
was going to mate it to the TDI from the Golf ... fuel savings paid for the car, sold for +$3000
a c10 chassis and built the IFS for V1.0, that i later sold ... parted it all down for +$250 profit
drove home the $500 YJ, fixed it ... traded straight up for the 96 cummins ram
parted down cummins ram ... -$400 into keeping the 12v n chassis
build the chassis and sold it to build the new hotness ... lost -$750 on that
all-in I'm doing ok so far, neither number is hateful all things considered. i think i'm on track that once fully functional i'd be able to sell it for more than the actual (higher) cost.
with the body so low on the chassis ... the steering box, ended up right in the middle of the driver side core support body mount. add in the need for as big of a radiator as i can get, and the jungle gym steering, and i'm running out of room! only free space is under the frame really, and i need both body mounts and bumper mounts still. so i placed a body mount puck, and some small tabs where the bumper would be ... and started trying to connect it all to the frame. i'm not super happy with how this looks, it just seams overly complicated. but i'm starting to think that's only because i don't have all the BS i'm building around in there.
https://i.imgur.com/emTsvkW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/W0MR7Do.jpg
decided i hated it ... started over.
the core support mounts are now inverted, so they bolt to the bottom of the frame instead. i was trying to keep the core support sitting on them even with a loose bolt, but this is just going to be way cleaner. the core support is basically flat against the front of the frame, so the lower plate will weld to it.
the bumper is also a completely separate mount now and should provide a little more protection. still need to figure out a better diagonal support thought. that might need to wait until it's built since i don't have the C30 crossmember modeled.
https://i.imgur.com/x3lVXuG.jpg
Cobound
01-29-2021, 01:09 PM
SELL IT :squint:
detailed some more 3D n got a little more plate ordered Saturday from my buddy, can't wait to have the the front clip mounted. also spent Saturday replacing the ENTIRE power steering, pump and all the lines even up to the hydroboost, in my 2500. freaking blew out the ONE day my wife drove it to work, and it was our anniversary. none of the crazy rusty lines blew, was a new chinesium hose from the new cooler last year ... WTF!?! whatever, all new now.
Sunday i managed to get a little done even while trying to cut my finger off. while removing the bits of the factory dash support that were in the way of the new pedal assembly, i managed to GASH my finger on some grinder flash. one of those super deep, you felt it go that deep, and you are rushing to wash it really good before the nerve endings catch up n it hurts. but got that all cut out and clearanced!
so i got the Helix pedal firewall assembly and it's really nice, but sux. the dash side mounting plate is way off at the wrong angle and almost an inch too long. tech support said it was designed for the cars, but "should also work in the the truck". well i'm debating between cutting it up or returning it for the CPP.
also chopped the seat frame out of the yukon bench, no going back now! i had it latched while i was cutting and it stayed together well, so i'm now 100% convinced that once bolted to the floor it'll be great. just more attention to lining it all up than GM would have done in a factory.
https://i.imgur.com/Hb72yF6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/O55l5DL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sXz4cIt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9kJWOhJ.jpg
:insert excuses for lack of progress:
chopped up the seat and got it's final resting place all figured. now i just need to fab up the mounts. shouldn't be too bad.
chopped up the Helix pedal bracket and got it to fit. she's bolted to the firewall and the dash, but now i need to weld it back together. also bought a 2nd pedal assembly just to steel the pedal for my clutch. pretty happy with this, need a longer bolt and to chop off the extra now.
https://i.imgur.com/vxqTg4z.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uDMzj3J.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eM47q5l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qSj5dJc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fX5A7nq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Cv0SLaw.jpg
Sir Sam
02-05-2021, 11:23 AM
cool
seat is officially placed, and temporarily secured. the rear mounts are bolted to the factory seat location then tacked to the seat frame. the delrin spacer blocks are just sitting there but will be screwed to the seat frame and not the floor just for support. thought, i might also delete em after the mount is fully welded since the seat leans on the back of the cab anyways. the forward mounts will be riv-nuts in the floor vs the current self tappers now that i know the placement is good. fold n tumble seat still works great too. with the console down you really notice the driver seat being offset probably 2-3" from center of the cluster.
fit the steering and kind of wish i had gotten the 28" vs the 30". i'd rather have the brushed natural finish, but the 3 different finishes kind of sucks, so i might try and get a black 28". in the picture you can see it exits the firewall really close to the frame, and i could use it a little further away from me inside at that placement.
also got the pedals bracket all modified and welded back together, easier than shipping them back to try something different. cut up my 2nd set for the clutch pedal, and spliced the bolts to make the length i needed to get thru the whole thing. it feels pretty good, but now i need to figure out the height to place the clutch master. i was shocked and excited tough that the pedal shaft that came with the hydroboost for whatever application was perfect as-is!
https://i.imgur.com/sltYCux.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ke1B5EN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/U2LexFv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mtQJLwI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jKKpmSn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0jNHtqE.jpg
Cobound
02-08-2021, 03:55 PM
poomiim :dunno:
Get in there and take a proper pic :roflmao:
so i did return the 30" natural finish steering column and got a 28" all black. the 3 different materials/textures of the natural was pissing me off, and the less 2" should put me only JUST thru the firewall for better steering shaft angles.
so funny story, i returned it directly to the Summit Racing warehouse where i like to go thru the scratch n dent pile. well they got rid of it, and that sux, hopefully coming back after renovations cuz even the staff was pissed. so i'm getting my gift card credit at the cashier and with no one else in line i ask for some extra help. their online order history is only 3 years and i've already lost access to orders i made for this truck. i asked if she could print out my entire order history for me to scan back into a PDF. sure thing! so she proceeds to then tell my wife how much i've spent at summit racing since 2013.
:eek: :lol: :james: :bangtard:
so i set about getting the 12V placement figured, that was a b!tch. at one point i got it stuck between the chassis and cab and had to just start cutting, but at least it was stuff i needed to eventually cut anyways. it "fits". engine/trans and chassis are sitting on separate jack stands ready for mounts. i have them all drawn up, but need to get the plate cut now ... i really need my own plasma table ...
firewall reference for how far back it is, the #6 cylinder is totally behind it. the '55 AL radiator is in basically the stock placement to check clearance, and there is some. fun fact: there is 11" from the rocker of a 1955 chevy truck up to the under side of the floor. and yet, with an nv5600 sitting on the ground it still requires cutting! that trans is literally in there with the bottom parallel to the ground and the same 0.5" above the bottom of the frame that the rockers are.
please excuse the second "rock out selfie" ... it just keeps happening! :lol: :metal:
https://i.imgur.com/t3lk19A.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FH2iNBS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nrTH2bf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cg8JuEZ.jpg
Cobound
02-16-2021, 01:33 PM
so funny story, i returned it directly to the Summit Racing warehouse where i like to go thru the scratch n dent pile. well they got rid of it, and that sux, hopefully coming back after renovations cuz even the staff was pissed. so i'm getting my gift card credit at the cashier and with no one else in line i ask for some extra help. their online order history is only 3 years and i've already lost access to orders i made for this truck. i asked if she could print out my entire order history for me to scan back into a PDF. sure thing! so she proceeds to then tell my wife how much i've spent at summit racing since 2013.
:eek: :lol: :james: :bangtard:
https://i.imgur.com/cg8JuEZ.jpg
OOPS :lol: :roflmao: :james: :bangtard:
:rock:
Nice sweatshirt ;)
so i'll be really disappointed if i never get the chance to throw way too many PSI's at this motor. with that in mind, and my current record of blowing out drive shafts, i wanted to make sure i gave this every chance to live. enter the 1410 series u-joints, ram used them factory on some HD applications and is what the truck-pull guys will upgrade to as well.
i need a 2pc drive shaft just for length alone, and to get out from under the cab easier. i also wanted a CV rear shaft with the CV flange fixed right at the truck arm pivot. this would give me the "perfect" shaft angle thru the entire range of travel. this all meant that i needed a fixed carrier bearing at a different angle than the forward shaft, really you could maybe call this a 3pc drive shaft. the carrier bearing or mid shaft, will be at the same 6.5deg as the transmission and have a standard shaft between the trans to bearing. the bearing will be fixed to the chassis and give me the fixed CV flange output to the axle.
so Branik Motorsports sells this ultimate carrier bearing for KOH rigs. however they only sell it with a standard yoke on both ends. Dodge used a 1410 CV in the front of some 4x4 trucks, and dimensionally i figured it could be used in the assembly. i bought a used yoke, mailed it to Branik, and they machined it to work! 32spline chromoly shaft, shimmed bearing pre-load, and ready to weld in. can't weld it with the bearings in there, so once it's fit i'll pack it with grease and install the seals.
https://i.imgur.com/7NzsMX2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZD4x5MY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/h5XxDDh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GWrEjf2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RGWJv2j.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MuuzLU5.jpg
new power steering pump n bracket to delete the factory vacuum pump gives me all kinds of room for motor mounts! and one less oil leak.
drew up the shock mounts. decided to use RS9000XL shocks for the adjustability, so i hit up service and got a PDF with every shock they make listed with lengths and eye's. took a bit to go thru, but found some.
also sandblasted a factory bezel before i made a backing to mount gauges. the plate is actually CORTEN and will most likely get a clearcoat to keep that look. at this point i'm leaning towards one gps Speedhut speedo centered low, and 2 Banks iDash datalogging gauges above. can display anything and everything i'd ever want, plus datalog and tune the 12v when i start playing with it. i probably won't order those until i get the body back on the chassis for good though.
https://i.imgur.com/Y0c0N0x.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j0xRiGj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xFetrz0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PtfENxt.jpg
xj_man_646
02-26-2021, 08:27 AM
Looking good.
You should get one of those in-cab adjustable fuel plates. If I had a 12V I would get one no question.
https://puredieselpower.com/12-valve-cummins-chip-adjustable-fuel-plate.html
interesting, i had not seen that before.
this is what i had seen:
https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/afc-live-gauge/
ultimately however, both are only doing one thing. they limit the max travel of the AFC and therefor limit the max fueling available. one physically moves the end stop, one interrupts the boost reference and limits the max PSI to the pump. one of the first steps in tuning a p-pump is to set the AFC spring/plate so that it achieves desired max travel (based on your possible fueling) at your max boost. limiting the psi will limit the travel just like putting in a physical stop.
so for $30 i bought a precision parker air pressure regulator with air blead and will stick it in-line with the boost reference. i'll also copy the AFC-Live guys and have a bypass valve switch. unfortunately it's not really a linear or proportional tuning reduction, just turns off the stupid zone. the AFC-Live also includes an orifice valve though, so you do have some control over how quickly the max psi you set is shown to the pump. combined these help make a 1000hp truck more street-able by giving you a simulated better throttle resolution.
the best solution would be to have variable in-cab control over the AFC spring rate, but i've never seen that. tune the truck right for "race mode" then use something to limit that for "street mode"
i still have a TON to learn about tuning the p-pump. it truly has mechanical provisions to basically tune every aspect of fueling. the base fueling, the max fueling, the fueling profile thru the RPM range with 2 different profiles based on either partial or full throttle, psi proportional increase, timing, pressure of delivery, etc etc
xj_man_646
02-26-2021, 02:59 PM
Injection timing is the main thing I do not understand about direct injection engines. I know you can really screw sh1t up if you get that wrong, though.
Haha, right! Well it seams like everybody and their brother goes to 18 to 20deg, so im going to shoot for 19. Factory is 12
oooohhhhh yeah! she officially holds her own face finally!
you might also notice that i chopped out the rad mount and welded it back in. it used to stand proud of the support, but i made it flush to gain another 1/2" of clearance. was going to go further, but this was easier and still helped.
https://i.imgur.com/mLc9Dkr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ApmvJ0i.jpg
Cobound
03-02-2021, 11:01 AM
Can't wait to see this thing do it's first burnout ;) :rock:
I just got my JK home, need to pull the grille and mount the winch box again...or move the cooler from the Hemi install...hmmm...seems like childsplay compared to this :lol:
Can't wait to see this thing do it's first burnout ;) :rock:
me too!!!
Sir Sam
03-03-2021, 09:22 AM
Looking good.
so that's not going ANYwhere. a little alignment, a little more strap rubber, a few hoses, n fill it.
https://i.imgur.com/2FkkASf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Noxyj9P.jpg
she now holds the 12v! I'm super happy with the fit/function of these mounts, they aren't going anywhere. but they just lack something, they don't have the same style as other bits on the truck. they are missing with my eye, but unless i come up with something super easy, they aren't getting changed. front of the crank sits 1/2" passenger, and the trans output is 1/4" passenger to help gain clearance for the starter (and a throttle pedal)
https://i.imgur.com/Q6z8M4d.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ny4cRoN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4SOBymD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rNduJ19.jpg
"Make the noise!"
https://i.imgur.com/11pd7jF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fnlOyn2.jpg
YYYEEEEAAAAAAAHHHHHSSSSSSSSS!!
I might have done some things out of order n had to re-do em ... But she's officially hanging. The crossmember should be good for the chassis, was easy in n out, and won't let that trans go anywhere.
I love the flat belly pics, b/c racecar :lol:
https://i.imgur.com/3Md0whF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FtXjbWf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FTxuyOA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UXBeBd1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ECE4NHZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5Swp9NR.jpg
made some shocking progress this evening
https://i.imgur.com/GtK3zFa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rwHXhi7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PBLPzqn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Zr6TILa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lBOQJ26.jpg
got the carrier bearing mounted finally now that i knew the angle of the trans output. the sucky part is that i have to knock the bearing races out to fully weld it.
i do have some drive shafts i can start cutting up for temporary bits for the first test drive and sorting everything out.
https://i.imgur.com/eo6ZzrA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HG7OcxG.jpg
one thing i really want this to be is reasonable to drive for long distances on the highway. that's going to require a new rear gear to really get there, but I'm starting with noise and heat. while researching mufflers and killing drone on big exhaust for the 12v, the ONLY thing that everyone agreed on was that these resonator/mufflers are the best thing going. even adding another standard muffler after it for a great note that is actually more quite then factory in the cab. but it looks super screwy :lol:
my next issue is getting a 5" exhaust to go anywhere reasonable. i have always planned to run it down outside the frame on the passenger side with a side exit in front of the running board. the running board might now get scrapped for a 2nd muffler, but i'll save that for later. the real issue is going to be getting the exhaust around the frame, tire, shock, and body! if building this frame again, i'd move the 45deg section back by 3" to gain enough space to turn a 90 in plane with the ground and then turn a 90 straight up inside to the turbo. as it stands though, i have 5.5" between the floor and frame. i was thinking maybe i would just run a 4" down to the rocker, but now maybe i can crush a 5" down to a 4" tall oval locally there. we'll see, this will be a project.
https://i.imgur.com/KY3xwI8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dUEakxT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jp56AGs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dNPiZri.jpg
nblehm
03-13-2021, 09:45 AM
That frame is coming out so good. i could look at that rear crossmember/link mount pic all day.
That frame is coming out so good. i could look at that rear crossmember/link mount pic all day.
Thanks!
Sir Sam
03-14-2021, 01:42 PM
Looks good. I still think it should be galvanized.
xj_man_646
03-15-2021, 07:02 AM
Matt, I suggest 4" exhaust. There is no reason to struggle to package a full 5" turbo back system. You won't have the power to use that much flow.
Matt, I suggest 4" exhaust. There is no reason to struggle to package a full 5" turbo back system. You won't have the power to use that much flow.
right now i won't ... but eventually i fully intent to.
this next bit of fab is going to make a few of you twitch. off road fab'd some drive shafts for test fitting and set-up this weekend. i have actually had very good success doing this with perfect balance at 80mph, and living years under jeeps being beat off road. so i'm sure this is a long-term temporary solution. :lol:
had to make a little clearance on the fwd shaft to the crossmember. held a sharpie on a pc of 1/4" plate and spun the shaft to get about 1/2" clearance. if the chassis twists enough to get that to contact, the solution isn't more clearance but adding a roll cage ;) this shaft is 1410 joints, and will eventually just get a new professionally balanced pc.
the rear shaft helped me set the rear pinion angle and check it thru travel. at full droop i set the pinion 2deg below the shaft to allow for a little motion up under torque loading. at full compression the pinion is only 1.2deg below the pinion, so ride will be somewhere in the middle. axle perches are officially tacked in place, making the axle DONE and ready for final weld/paint. this shaft is a junkyard 1350 cv, eventually i'll get a new 1410 cv unit and have to change the yoke on the axle at the same time. that's probably also a good time to get better gears and limited slip installed.
i'm quickly running out of things to fab and procrastinate doing the floor ...
https://i.imgur.com/lbqUawe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ss1XqM0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/T2irvS1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/e046RrI.jpg
xj_man_646
03-15-2021, 09:04 AM
right now i won't ... but eventually i fully intent to.
No, Matt, you won't. 5" is capable of so much flow that you will not reliably make that much power out of a 12v tow rig.
It will also help with noise.
nblehm
03-15-2021, 10:03 AM
I made a driveshaft with old shafts when I ls swapped my j-10. It was ok enough to drive under 60 but it wasnt any where close to square. I didnt put much effort into it though.
jeepkid05
03-15-2021, 12:36 PM
This is super sick. What welder are you running?
This is super sick. What welder are you running?
thanks!
welder is the same Lincoln Sp175+ i bought in college with my student loan :roflmao: was the cheapest 220 welder at the time with both infinite voltage and wire control.
xj_man_646
03-15-2021, 12:46 PM
Are there no 'upper control arms' with a truck arm suspension?
Cobound
03-15-2021, 12:47 PM
Holy Christ this is moving along nicely...so many small details you're hitting, too.
That said, all that nice frame fabbing and welding and you're just going to cover it up w/ some old patina body panels :p
:lol:
Are there no 'upper control arms' with a truck arm suspension?
no sir, they are radius arms. but because of the triangulation and reduced deflection thru articulation the axle is bolted directly to them vs with bushings. also creates a little bit of a sway bar effect.
Holy Christ this is moving along nicely...so many small details you're hitting, too.
That said, all that nice frame fabbing and welding and you're just going to cover it up w/ some old patina body panels :p
:lol:
thanks!
and yes i am! maybe one day i'll make a bed floor hatch to show off the rear end, but probably not. also maybe one day i'll make the whole truck shinny, but not for a while.
:f2:
xj_man_646
03-15-2021, 02:33 PM
no sir, they are radius arms. but because of the triangulation and reduced deflection thru articulation the axle is bolted directly to them vs with bushings. also creates a little bit of a sway bar effect.
Interesting. I had never really looked into it much.
No, Matt, you won't. 5" is capable of so much flow that you will not reliably make that much power out of a 12v tow rig.
It will also help with noise.
you might be right ... but still doing it. my research says that the 5" has a deeper tone, and generally less raspy like i want. i've also ordered a muffler to go behind the resonator to try and even take out a bit more noise. as for power, everyone on average seamed to think that it would help on an engine making 600+hp, especially at higher RPM when using the 4k+ gov spring. and i intend to do both of those things.
xj_man_646
03-15-2021, 05:36 PM
as for power, everyone on average seamed to think that it would help on an engine making 600+hp, especially at higher RPM when using the 4k+ gov spring. and i intend to do both of those things.
I fully believe it'll still be overkill. Unless the turbo outlet is 5" or larger you're restricted from the get-go anyway, and that seems huge, at least in my mind compared to what I'm used to seeing on trucks. Just something to consider if it becomes tough to package exhaust. You do you, as they say. I'm enjoying watching the progress! Seeing stuff like this kinda / sorta makes me wish I had kept up with CAD or gotten a job that uses it. I've also seen some of the wheeler alumni use CAD for their cage designs to great success.
Seeing stuff like this kinda / sorta makes me wish I had kept up with CAD or gotten a job that uses it. I've also seen some of the wheeler alumni use CAD for their cage designs to great success.
oh man, i'll never go back! i love it!
jeepkid05
03-15-2021, 09:39 PM
IMHO 5” is the only way to go on a Cummins. It sounds like a big rig.
the best thing you can do is run open, zero back pressure at all. i can fit it down the side, so why not!
i'll probably have to 3" the first 3 ft :lol: :james:
xj_man_646
03-16-2021, 10:30 AM
oh man, i'll never go back! i love it!
Yeah, I haven't touched anything since Catia in the 2008-2009ish timeframe. Its been awhile to say the least :lol:
xj_man_646
03-16-2021, 10:33 AM
[QUOTE=jeepkid05;63886]IMHO 5
xj_man_646
03-16-2021, 10:34 AM
IMHO 5” is the only way to go on a Cummins. It sounds like a big rig.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UV6H9uBprFk
See 1:27 :lol:
nblehm
03-16-2021, 11:08 AM
It sounds like bigfoot farting into a large trash can for a long time :lol:
I am getting old give me quite exhaust.
Cobound
03-16-2021, 12:21 PM
It sounds like bigfoot farting into a large trash can for a long time :lol:
I am getting old give me quite exhaust.
Ditto!
jeepkid05
03-16-2021, 12:41 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UV6H9uBprFk
See 1:27 :lol:
I love those.
xj_man_646
03-16-2021, 01:33 PM
I do too. There was a funny one about building a KOH buggy; I can't find it now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UV6H9uBprFk
See 1:27 :lol:
:roflmao::roflmao::lol:
jeepkid05
03-16-2021, 07:23 PM
This was one of the first ones I saw :lol:
https://youtu.be/S-BGIcRBPHM
more 5" exhaust showed up to trigger James, this time the 2nd most recommended muffler to quite a diesel, a Donaldson muffler. now i went with a shorter version though since i don't quite have the room, so 20" body vs the 44" most ppl get for a ram. this is an M090595 with 5" in and out.
straight thru design, but then you can see the baffle right smack in the middle. i guess if it's too quite i can just start drilling holes in that. :lol:
the rear fenders are about 13" wide, and this can is 9" dia plus at least 1" off the bed side, so i'll still be at least 3" inside the fender lip with this side pipe. don't forget that i'm making the whole bed wider to get around the duals vs just wider fenders.
https://i.imgur.com/SdLhxcq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CWD6Ux0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6M2vtv0.jpg
while i've been plotting exhaust and ordering parts, i've also started to figure the trans tunnel. i think i'm going to commit to the bent plate vs rolled look.
https://i.imgur.com/wuhhkFO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9vBWs7E.jpg
xj_man_646
03-23-2021, 07:08 AM
straight thru design, but then you can see the baffle right smack in the middle. i guess if it's too quite i can just start drilling holes in that. :lol:
I'm curious to see how it turns out, but I really really do not think you'll have this issue :lol:
I'm curious to see how it turns out
me too!
nblehm
03-23-2021, 09:27 PM
I am not liking the direction of the exhaust so far, but the rest of the build is turning out sweet so I will trust the process.
I am not liking the direction of the exhaust so far, but the rest of the build is turning out sweet so I will trust the process.
is there anything specific that's messing with your eye/head more than another?
i chose the 5" for the deeper tone that'll be less expected, and higher flow if/when i build this thing out. the resonator under the cab won't be seen, then the muffler side pipe will fit between the cab and the wheel house with the wheel house being wider. off the back of the muffler will be some kind 45 out and probably a "teardrop" style cut pipe for the tip. since the law requires a heat shield, i'll most likely just use a TI wrap. i'll wrap everything turbo to back of the cab anyways. a little ratty, a little street-rod, something different. plus having the muffler and resonator should keep things "quiet" but sound nice, especially with the tip at least 4ft behind the cab.
as for black smoke on the fender, that's just proper rat :roflmao:.
so i got to talking to a buddy who also isn't thrilled with my side pipe, he was suggesting (demanding) a y-pipe and splitting the 5" into dual 3.5" pipes out the back. can't go under the axle b/c of the travel, and with the bags, shocks, cross member, WATTs link, and the giant 14b housing ... i just can't without some major re-engineering.
best case probably would be to put 2 4" ID tubes thru the 3" shock cross member and reinforce it. from the mufflers under the cab a full 90 up and full 90 back to get over the suspension mount, then the Y, then thru the cross member holes outside the upper shock mounts, then full 90 dive straight down between the axle and WATTs, and another full 90 under it to go out wherever. physically possible, but shatty.
xj_man_646
03-25-2021, 02:45 PM
For what its worth, side exit in front of the rear wheel started to destroy Hubble's aluminum wheel finish with his super duty. It might have been polish-able, but I don't think he ever got that far. Not sure if that could be an issue with the black wheels or not.
Can you set the axle at theoretical maximum bump height with tires installed and see how much clearance above the axle you have (could be just me but it appears that the axle would never bump that far with tires installed and the truck laid out on the frame)?
For what its worth, side exit in front of the rear wheel started to destroy Hubble's aluminum wheel finish with his super duty. It might have been polish-able, but I don't think he ever got that far. Not sure if that could be an issue with the black wheels or not.
Can you set the axle at theoretical maximum bump height with tires installed and see how much clearance above the axle you have (could be just me but it appears that the axle would never bump that far with tires installed and the truck laid out on the frame)?
the u-bolts hit the frame, that's the bump. i specifically build the frame to that point. the level in the pictures is taller than the bed floor support rails, the bed floor will be right on the top of the 14b, coming up between the supports. don't forget the 4 air bags that are 8" diameter missing from the pictures too. my goal was to get the bed floor as low as possible to have as much bed depth as possible to still be useable. i had also always planned to just have a turn-out from behind the cab, but have since decided to add the second muffler instead of having a bed side step on that side.
the axle tube is 1" above the bottom of the frame at full droop. going low and fitting a ton of big steel in a small space.
https://i.imgur.com/dx75TF8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OBm8OIw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LAkb1ZN.jpg
xj_man_646
03-25-2021, 04:19 PM
Where does the axle sit in this picture? Is it actually that close to the bump position shown above?
https://i.imgur.com/XE7Nu0g.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b4rXWAF.jpg
xj_man_646
03-25-2021, 04:20 PM
Yep, you don't have much room.
Better just hood stack it. :lol:
xj_man_646
03-25-2021, 04:21 PM
What about...hear me out here...turning one frame rail into the exhaust? :lol:
Yep, you don't have much room.
Better just hood stack it. :lol:
right!!
:f2:
What about...hear me out here...turning one frame rail into the exhaust? :lol:
dude ... you are actually not the first person to suggest that :james:
xj_man_646
03-25-2021, 04:27 PM
The more I think about it...the more I think it could work. Cross section might be a bit small at the back section...I bet it would sound really weird :lol:
Got a new toy in the mail today! I had the swag press brake, but just got the adapter for tight bends. I think this is going to be good.
The sheet is 16g CORTEN i had left over from building the house, so its nice n solid. I was thinking about where to put a bead roll or 2 and its just noooot needed. The floor structure bridge will be plated over and under to box it.
https://i.imgur.com/ZBfU4eA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FZV4csN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8tiemYN.jpg
wrath
03-27-2021, 01:58 PM
Got a new toy in the mail today! I had the swag press brake, but just got the adapter for tight bends. I think this is going to be good.
The sheet is 16g CORTEN i had left over from building the house, so its nice n solid. I was thinking about where to put a bead roll or 2 and its just noooot needed. The floor structure bridge will be plated over and under to box it.
https://i.imgur.com/ZBfU4eA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FZV4csN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8tiemYN.jpg
I have a meeyon uses for that thing, where did you get it? It looks like it does an awesome job.
jeepkid05
03-27-2021, 03:06 PM
I have a meeyon uses for that thing, where did you get it? It looks like it does an awesome job.
If you google swag off-road he makes a bunch of add ons for standard tools and HF stuff. We have an air over hydraulic adapter for the JD2 bender and it works great. Swag does cool stuff. He
I have a meeyon uses for that thing, where did you get it? It looks like it does an awesome job.
Yep swag off road brings a lot of win! I have a portaband table mount as well
Getting a little better at this sheet metal thing. I'll fill the floor flat across to the tunnel, and will be a huge flare going fwd around the bell. Lucky me, i was able to read my own sketch :lol:
https://i.imgur.com/rGB7ojp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XKVbh2z.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zwe22iq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9pZO3NE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qSj5dJc.jpg
finally got the throttle pedal i ordered like 2 months ago. There was NO way my size 13 boot was going to fit between the tunnel and the brake pedal where it was. Relief cuts, reversed the bends to get the pedal arm on the other side of the column n i think we are golden. I actually like the mirrored look better to!
https://i.imgur.com/JTC2uAF.jpg
Sir Sam
04-08-2021, 12:40 PM
Welp, I know what I need to order now.
ok, finally stopped procrastinating and got to work on the new doghouse for the #6 cylinder. lots of trial work with the markers before i finally settled on something i liked.
made the firewall cuts, measured twice, then bent myself a 6.5" sidewall to the doghouse. fit it, realized i had measured wrong, and had to cut in half since i didn't want to waste that much steel. got it welded back together and that little panel had a little warp in it. i hate sheet metal. and i really could have taken a tiny bit more out of it, but oh well. she fit pretty well.
https://i.imgur.com/n95rs0Q.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rIgQDj8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WtOx9Bs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n2criUn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/igcgbVS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ctdnsas.jpg
so before i swung that massive chunk of cast iron out of the frame, i had measured about where i wanted to cut the tunnel on the dog house back plate. nothing like trusting in your notes and making holes! the back plate has a 6.5deg bend (same angle as engine tip) in it as well, trying to pull the face fwd and give my boot a little more room. i need to test fit with all the pedals and seat in place, but i could actually do like a 1" chamfer up that whole corner if needed too. i'll finish the rest of the tunnel first.
should have enough room on the exhaust side for an aftermarket manifold and full blanket to keep the cab cooler.
https://i.imgur.com/VK4baEV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b5wh5Rw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CKy2eFi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XDm9vxQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/32vnZzP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Bi3m2C4.jpg
my biggest win was that the engine/trans were able to swing in together at the same time! that trans is STUPID heavy and i have zero interest in trying to put it in from the bottom. i'd probably pull the cab. my tunnel cut lined up nice, and i'm buring it all in solid now.
https://i.imgur.com/o3jmUcN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kjy7sYR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gVLytud.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PhijXY1.jpg
xj_man_646
04-12-2021, 08:35 AM
Looking good. Also agree that I would not want to lift the trans in from the bottom unless I had a 2 post and trans jack.
Looking good. Also agree that I would not want to lift the trans in from the bottom unless I had a 2 post and trans jack.
fawk, i'd not even attempt it on a trans jack! maybe if i had 2 of them under it, one at the bell and one at the tail. only way i would do it would be on a lift, lower the truck down until the trans rests on an HD rolly cart, block it, unbolt n roll back, then lift the truck up off.
actually did that last time i pulled the nv4500 out of the TJ at a buddies house. sooooooo gooooood.
nblehm
04-13-2021, 10:41 AM
Drill 2 holes for the back head bolts and seal with grommets so you can pull the head bolts out and take the head of without pulling the motor.
xj_man_646
04-13-2021, 11:18 AM
Drill 2 holes for the back head bolts and seal with grommets so you can pull the head bolts out and take the head of without pulling the motor.
In the top of the cowl? Or?
Drill 2 holes for the back head bolts and seal with grommets so you can pull the head bolts out and take the head of without pulling the motor.
In the top of the cowl? Or?
i was thinkin about that, but there are like 4-6 bolts under there. plus i'm not sure i can get the valve cover off, or the exhaust manifold easy.
other than the anxiety of the weight on a HF crane, it's actually not bad puling it vs other junk i've messed with. i made the engine mounts come out really easy totally out of the way, and the front clip won't have anything mounted to it but one lighting connection and 6 bolts to pull. drain some fluids, drive shaft, fuel line n starter wires.
nblehm
04-19-2021, 08:37 AM
In the top of the cowl? Or?
Yeah dodge does it from the factory. I almost got ****ed on that doing a head gasket on a 12v swapped suburban.
xj_man_646
04-19-2021, 08:50 AM
Yeah dodge does it from the factory. I almost got ****ed on that doing a head gasket on a 12v swapped suburban.
Reeeeeeally. I did not know that.
a 12v swapped suburban.
:us::pimp:
aaalllllll the tack welds
https://i.imgur.com/ZiwZyso.jpg
xj_man_646
04-21-2021, 12:53 PM
Nice signature :lol:
sheet metal is so not my thing ... i had to stop the first night i tried to cap the rib before i threw tools thru the windshield. next day took a zen moment and went back to it. not perfect, but good enough to cover in bed liner! i went under the truck and welded it from the bottom so that i could round the edges similar to the stamped rib in the floor.
other progress didn't happen cuz i went n beat on the jeep. wedged myself between a rock and a tree for the first real cowl damage i've gotten. i'm sad, haha
https://i.imgur.com/1a29YcL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0hKIGWJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/paqnwuu.jpg
sat down last night to officially tackle the pc that's been giving me anxiety. first shot with cardboard was a total bust, so tried a new tactic. i covered the entire opening with tape, drew on my bend lines, then cut the tape along the edges. best part about the tape was it then stuck right onto my sheet. cut out, transferred bend marks, and BOOM.
so the sharp back corners of the doghouse are kinda bugging me. i'm debating cutting them out for a 1" 45, but really need to just round them like the floor rib and see how it looks after.
https://i.imgur.com/aM4Rfgj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rMsRySW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ie1KGSc.jpg
Cobound
04-27-2021, 09:48 AM
Baller...kudos on plowing through this, tedious little things that are actually huge things in the end. Man, mad props to you guys doing this stuff, love it!!
Hoofmann
04-27-2021, 07:39 PM
That’s a great idea to transfer that odd pattern! Noted. :)
Sir Sam
04-28-2021, 09:27 AM
Lord knows I get the tedious stuff, but it’s also those things that set aside a really top notch build from a slap it together barely working build.
Slowly but surely working on sheet n got the tunnel finished! I welded the inside of each joint and ground the outside to hopefully resemble the bends after spraying the liner.
https://i.imgur.com/pq971FT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CLu3c6m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/aFUh3TT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8oxbnQx.jpg
ok, i finally stopped slacking as bad and did some work this weekend.
the drivers rear body mount reinforcement wasn't attached any more, so i fixed that. welded some floor cracks under it, wire wheel, Auto Tech rust prep, weld-thru primer, and hot metal glued it back on.
then i set to work on the firewall, more sheet metal i've been dreading. started with smoothing out the rib that ended up under my brake booster, and then continued to fil holes. lots to go, but making progress.
https://i.imgur.com/Ya9ivwF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7YtkSp8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NiRXmMu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EZVUrYQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/G2siOf9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Pl8CcVe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9IjKS1F.jpg
so i'm still putting off having to do the floor repair, decided to take the firewall a little further tonight. wire wheels, cleaned, Auto Tech Rust Prep, cleaned, and primer to see it in a solid color. a little smoothing here and there, some body caulk, and she'll be ready for the Lizardskin. nothing like a nice textured black coating to hide even more imperfections.
also finished getting the old pedal and steering holes filled, while leaving the new steering hole in place.
https://i.imgur.com/grs1qP0.jpg
xj_man_646
05-27-2021, 08:29 AM
Looking good! Nice work on the sheet metal so far.
oh man, my cardboard list is getting shorter! i now HAVE to do the floor patch work before anything else on the cab, it's time to dive into the mess ...
fitted up some frame horn caps and gussets cut from extra box tube.
added the axle center pins to the truck arms. 7/16 cap head bolts slightly turned down down in a drill with a grinder, to specifically fit the smallest drill bit size i had that was larger than 1/2" to open up the perches with. then got the shock mounts, bag mounts, and finally the fish plates fully welded on the arms. just a quick gusset to add to each upright on the bag mounts (cuz beef, and cuz why not) to call these 100% done. the axle however now IS done and ready for clean-up n paint.
https://i.imgur.com/r1f1HGm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/t6U3P5L.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EVZC25X.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sGvOjhE.jpg
Cobound
06-01-2021, 11:17 AM
Good Lord, the beef...this thing is gonna be a smoooth ride, but a tank!
Dennis
06-04-2021, 11:27 AM
Are you tracking all the time and materials spent on this project?
Wow!
Are you tracking all the time and materials spent on this project?
Wow!
i'm tracking parts for sure, but not time/consumables. stuff like the undercoating or something is in the parts, but welding wire/gas isn't.
all in i've dropped some pretty good coin on this thing so far, but should have almost everything to make it drive. there's a lot more to spend making is more hotrod though!
No turning back now! and this, so far, is sucking less than anticipated :lol:
so i found a pdf online of a black and white photo set and description from a magazine that said to cut out the bulk and remove each section of spot welds individually. what a world of difference this one tip has made. a buddy then said to wire-wheel the area to see all the spot welds a lot easier, again, huge win. i still have the little bit around the cab mount structure to get out, but that shouldn't be too bad.
https://i.imgur.com/R3Osp7O.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UtuRgou.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lBn71FD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZEPB9tG.jpg
this rust prep stuff seams LEGIT now that i'm finally getting a handle on how to use it. AutoTech Rust Prep.
this stuff ... the gallon is cheaper than the 16oz spritz bottle, so i bought my own bottle. protect your floor, it will etch the cement. i also try and keep it off my chassis since i plan to clear coat it, it will also etch any bare steel it gets on.
https://smile.amazon.com/Auto-Tech-Manufacturing-AT35-064-Refill/dp/B00ZAOI97M/ref=pd_sbs_1/142-0485389-3687928?pd_rd_w=NEsRL&pf_rd_p=180628c6-6f13-4dbf-9213-f09cdedc7815&pf_rd_r=P1ZZCBY8232T67BXPFDH&pd_rd_r=79fe6d69-f94f-45c3-925c-24f253e804a1&pd_rd_wg=YaGGZ&pd_rd_i=B00ZAOI97M&psc=1
also finally found an application method i like. i have it in a spritz bottle and mist it on, but have a rag to wipe up the drips coming off the bottom. then once the rag gets kind of saturated i use the rag to dab everything down and make sure it's in all the little spaces. once it's about half dry and the white starts to show up, i re-coat the whole thing with extra rag dabbing to help clean off the start of the white residue. after it's totally dry you have to clean all the white off with water (just a wet rag) before paint.
these pictures are not wet, that's the hard finish it leaves. just needs the rest of the white cleaned off.
https://i.imgur.com/qlSCM7D.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Z0jXi8v.jpg
Needs some clean up once i tip the cab up, but she's solid. still need to weld the 2 braces and 3/4 of the floor board before i start pulling out more rusty bits.
https://i.imgur.com/XhNL4vB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Vm5hsol.jpg
xj_man_646
06-10-2021, 11:12 AM
Looking good. Rust repair sucks.
:collapse: wow, i think i have more time into fixing this damn drivers floor than i do building the chassis. a few hours Friday night, a few more Saturday, and then ALL Sunday out there working on it. it's not even done! i have to weld from the back side to finish the over-lap fit.
once things were re-stabilized with the rocker mostly welded back in and everything wasn't going to fall as far out of alignment, i started cutting out more BS. also used the body mount holding the brace along the back of the step to weld it back in before cutting out the main mount structure. really helped me line up the new bits. then to keep more warpage to a minimum i filled the old brake hole before cutting out the bulk of the mess.
started by patching the door frame and getting it prepped, then moved on to fabbing up the next filler plate. the SWAG press making quick work of it. then started a crap-ton more prep work while i rust prepped everything and got the weld-thru primer on.
https://i.imgur.com/Pk80zKU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AyQSMrt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KyBlFzo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/l0xoFAQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KBT47HD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TcmBPI2.jpg
so after a little more trim/eyeball/trim/eyeball/over-trim ... the filler plate went in. you can also see where i extended the floor cut towards the tunnel for more bad metal along the entire factory seam. then more prep involving dry time, so i filled the holes in the rear floor, that officially go crossed off the list! and back to toiling away getting the mount structure to actually line up with the mount location. notice the slot, it was way off.
the entire cab is assembled with overlap fits and i personally think they are stronger and line up the panels better, so i went with that. it's also worked really well for floor pans in a few jeeps before. and success! holds it's own weight, rocker is level with the ground still, and i won't be flintstoneing it any time soon!
https://i.imgur.com/7lS8Ydy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oiQ5M8p.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/u06K0OA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NODES5x.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8iW85uj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4iwpias.jpg
for anyone interested in a little more detail, here is how i got the stamped floor ribs to nest better in the over-lap joint.
1) slice along the outside of the "spooning" rib. close to it, but up in the flat of the panel.
2) with a flat dolly of some kind, use a ball peen to hammer the rib out wider.
3) now that the panels fit snug, tack weld the seam from both sides. more hammer might be needed to perfect the fit.
4) seam seal everything in.
https://i.imgur.com/zVSsQlw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tZRVmet.jpg
Cobound
06-14-2021, 11:22 AM
I pulled an AC compressor, accumulator and condenser from a '98 XJ on Friday, waited for parts, installed first thing Saturday morning...left town for the rest of the weekend, sent my daughter over to get it charged on Sunday...came home to lots of love for having AC back in the Jeep over a hot week!
Nothing like your project, but damn do I feel good about it :lol:
Dude, like seeing your updates, too bad Damon wasn't as good about his...but he's also driving it :p
it's crazy, with ya'll getting work done and such why do i feel like i need to apologize for not carrying my weight :lol: like i missed uploading an episode or something! keep everyone motivated ya'll
so there might have been a mini vacation in there, a little boat trip. good lord was it hot in NC.
got the passenger floor all patched, so that's checked off the list. decided to not weld the underside of the drivers side til she's tipped up, so it was time to hit some other details. just because i needed a change of pace the first thing was final welding, grease, and assembly of the carrier bearing. one more part that now just needs paint and installation!
got the interior back in so i could finalize the alignment of the new shorter steering column and build the shaft down to the steering box. seat fit great with the tunnel, but also now realizing that i'll need a fwd jog in the shifter if i hope to ever open the drivers side seat bottom at all. i hope to take it to at least the steering wheel. but with the seat putting the driver closer to the door, and the tunnel pushing the pedals out some, i re-drilled my column mount and offset it in that same direction. my vision is now centered thru the wheel at the cluster, and is much more comfortable to one-hand.
next up are is the throttle pedal fitment and getting the steering shaft heim joint support in place.
https://i.imgur.com/qOQpz1R.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MhPRNpm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FwjcOXJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ffoQUZo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/H5Qrkub.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qWzeVoF.jpg
mocked up the air compressors with the new backing plate, just need to make the tabs that weld into the fuel tank mount channel.
got the throttle pedal in, and the high beam foot switch in.
also got the steering in!!! I've been wanting to see this together for a while. it's super close to the engine mount bolt and the shock tower, but clears by enough. it's also like 1/2deg before internal contact in the joint at the column, but is still smooth. the heim mount shouldn't flex much :lol:
EDIT: ... i'm going to have to clearance the shock tower for chassis flex clearance ...
Edit 2: change flex to torque twist at launch :lol:
https://i.imgur.com/JIfUvDt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3tQIRnr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ih06Mep.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dQfwOb9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0O8RdAN.jpg
jeepkid05
07-06-2021, 10:02 PM
High beam foot switch :pimp:
It’s all in the little details.
so i actually have an electric foot starter switch too, since the factory was a mechanical link bar to the starter. factory they were on the tunnel next to the throttle pedal, but that would put mine way up on the flat face of the doghouse. i'm not yet convinced that's what i want.
well, started a new project/adventure on Monday. a new accessory for the 55 when she's finally ready to tow!
1970 23ft Airstream Safari that my grandfather bought new. it's been about 10 years since it was used, and he stopped using it after it had fallen to such bad repair. well i've had it for about 8 years, and it's been about 6 years since he passed away, so it was time we dropped it off for a partial restoration at P&S trailers. SUPER excited not only for the family trailer to be useable again, but to be able to adventure with it.
far left
https://i.imgur.com/W8nFzj8.jpg
jeepkid05
07-07-2021, 08:11 PM
Damn that is so sick. I love airstreams.
xj_man_646
07-08-2021, 08:27 AM
Airstreams are so cool. My uncle has a seriously badass airstream RV that he keeps polished up.
That should be awesome when finished!
Cobound
07-12-2021, 05:17 PM
Damn, keep it coming...I used to have to wait for a monthly magazine w/ condensed versions of build updates...so you do you ;)
Airstream, funny - I remember you talking about this for years, excited to see that added to the list. We passed several on this vacation, even a new Basecamp model that they released recently - pretty cool mini unit. I actually struck up a chat w/ my wife as we were driving home about yours, remembered it being your gramps, how you had a handful of projects and I wondered if that was ever going to be done :lol:
Overland Journal has done a couple stories on them - a year or two ago they did one on a guy that traveled w/ the creator, his mom worked for them - they did several caravans in the 50-60's...talk about pioneers of the trailer traveler!!
:rock:
I'm tearing shiz apart now...hopefully to put something else back together with it. Such a circle of life this is :p
well ... the trailer quote came back higher than he expected or told us when we left it, but wasn't totally unexpected. hopefully finish up the back n forth to a final plan this morning and hopefully we answered fast enough to jump the line and get it in right away.
small updates, but lots of summer fun. got my exhaust hanger brackets cut and placed, that's a 4" inlet to an adjustable 4" exhaust brake, and then 5" out thru the 5" muffler. hopefully when the bolts are tight she'll hang a bit higher, or i'll end up with a bar or something to hold up the middle.
spent Saturday trying to brake the jeep again, but she held together. then Sunday took one of the wife's friends and her b/f out on the ski boat for a day of proving we weren't too old for this sh!t. :lol:
these are the exhaust rubbers i used:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-35296
https://i.imgur.com/PyQkZgN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VO1fSLV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LJ02VG9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sOpUmQY.jpg
i feel like this could be a polarizing subject, but lets hear your thoughts either way.
Seat Belts / Harnesses
i went for bright orange to contrast the blue n white, and still thinking i'd like to do an orange firewall after seeing the Backyard 55's red. i just love the accent contrast. but that's not the touchy subject.
so i got 5pt harnesses and will be installing them as a 4pt. my goal is to be better off than a 3pt kit, not race-ready. legally i could have none, but that's stupid. i don't think anyone would hate on just a lap belt cuz that's easy and way better than nothing. however with the steering wheel close i wanted more than just the 2pt lap. so i was researching 3pt and it just didn't seam like enough. (there's a reason new cars also include air bags with a 3pt) between the belt stretch, ratchet time to catch, give in the cab corner steel even with a giant weld-washer, my weight as a big dude, and the proximity of the wheel, i just didn't think it would really help enough.
i run a 5pt harness in both jeeps and love em, so that's what i wanted. however trying to get a harness bar in the cab when i'm already basically leaning on the back wall was a rough fit. i saw guys who had a tube welded from cab corner to cab corner, but i'd be leaning on the tube all the time. then i thought about cutting out that whole inner structure below the glass for more space, or running a tube behind it, but the seat leans on it and that low is a dangerous mounting angle for the shoulder belts. another option would be to just bolt the harness tabs flat to the cab structure, but they aren't designed to function in bending and still just a single mounting bolt to the sheet metal. even with a big weld washer.
so here's my solution, the harness plate. it's 12" wide with more bolts to spread the load out over a lot larger area. it's heavy enough to withstand the perpendicular belt mounting, and it let me mount the belts up into the glass area for proper angle off my shoulders. should be nice n solid around town, and any accident hard enough to bend/pull the cab structure right below where it welds to the outer skin in the window, was hard enough it's all fawked anyways. should hold me up better than a 3pt for sure, but obviously not good enough for any form of racing.
https://i.imgur.com/PO28BYX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1dH57cd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Wen6N9o.jpg
More orphan bolts found their forever home tonight :)
https://i.imgur.com/Gn44FWk.jpg
wasn't a quick shift, but got everything tipped over for finishing efforts. why weld upside down if ya don't have too?!?! lots of welding still on the chassis, and the floor gets sealed good.
https://i.imgur.com/ap4O64s.jpg
finally got my clutch in! the box also included a clutch arm, throughout bearing, and little plastic alignment tool for a total of 116.xx LBS. every time i spin this turd to 4000RPM, i'm also spinning up over 100lbs of steel and ceramic! :eek:
13" dual disk, ceramic button clutch rated at 650hp / 1300ft-lbs
1) i really hope it's balanced! 2) the mid-plate is as thick as a normal flywheel!
seriously though, that'll be a significant HP suck if i ever play on the strip. but at least it should hold the torques.
https://i.imgur.com/wJSYXJR.jpg
so i've just been chugging along with the welding, trying to be patient about welding a little and moving around the letting things cool. weld one side of the fish plate, do another side on another plate, etc. also took me a bit to find the pattern/settings that made the prettier welds on these. never did find something i really liked on the fish plate holes. BUT, aint nothing going nowhere! i still need to take a grinder to the top edge of all the plates and soften that before i snag/cut hoses or wires on em.
https://i.imgur.com/K6eiCZO.jpg
over the last few lbs of wire i can't decide if i got prettier welds or worse :lol: i'm now near 15lbs of wire into this truck!
because things aren't allowed to move unless i say so, i went ahead and added little gussets to the bag mounts, and also in the steering box mount. un-sprung weight? whatever :lol:
the chassis is fully welded now though, as is the cab floor. LOTS of clean-up to do softening edges, and i still need to add my zip-tie tabs on everything. then i can start paint prep.
https://i.imgur.com/KCmgp52.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kwKIh3u.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/aMmcsp6.jpg
Cobound
08-09-2021, 05:23 PM
Nobody, and I mean not even the little old Wendy's lady from 1984, is going to be asking "where's the beef" :lol:
:rock:
Nobody, and I mean not even the little old Wendy's lady from 1984, is going to be asking "where's the beef" :lol:
:rock:
:lol:
:chug:
Are you using a welding wire lubricator before entering the whip? That made a huge improvement for me. Are you changing your consumables often enough? Are you using copper coated welding wire?
Instead of welding 1/4" nuts to use as zip tie loops I started drilling and tapping the frame and using proper wire holders. Mostly because I had some zipties break after about 5 years on one of my trailers and it left the harness dangling.
no sir, didn't even know a wire lube was a thing. then also probably not, and i've never changed a liner or my whip. also i'm using whatever the 11lb spool of .035 is from the shelf at the welding shop.
Colin cut me a PILE of little guys like these.
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/R1581-full.jpg
i'm basically done with the major weldin on this thing now, and i've been saying i needed to do some PMs on this welder for a while. it's really time.
nblehm
08-17-2021, 09:16 PM
I have installed a few of those clutches. Not much in the way of slippage. Think I have taken 2 of the 3 back out :lol: but it was dudes trying to get a beefy clutch to haul horse trailers around.
Cobound
08-21-2021, 09:08 AM
Dude…you need this :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CSdGdhAAns1/?utm_medium=copy_link
Dude…you need this :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CSdGdhAAns1/?utm_medium=copy_link
i saw that! 10,000% need that!
Cobound
08-24-2021, 09:55 PM
:rock:
i know it doesn't look like much of a change, but taking a flap wheel around all the edges made a HUGE difference. i normally don't go over things after welding. you can now wipe your hand around over the whole thing and no snags, scratches, or roughness. should be nicer for wires n hoses, and way nicer to work on in the future.
also smoothed out the welds on the sleeved holes, was satisfying.
https://i.imgur.com/UDBai84.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Cq2aYxn.jpg
and back to progress! vacation prep, vacation, more family events, lots of life happening this last month. oh yeah and my TJ whipped another set of gears in the rear axle, so had to rebuild that too. :facepalm:
so i went thru and wire brushed, then wire wheeled everything that's getting the heat-shield undercoating, then prepped with rust-prep. what a mess, but it's done. also did the core support while i was at it so it can get painted. that'll be a key to getting thins running.
https://i.imgur.com/Di3fmrY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Bqc9zJn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/C8k2wXY.jpg
this made things go WAY better
https://i.imgur.com/6cjw6XU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ntcyu21.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KzB3Mrx.jpg
got a little more into 3D trying to place the intercooler heat exchangers. they are not small, haha. i think this is the final place, but now i need to come up with a sexy yet functional, and somewhat over-engineered mount for them.
https://i.imgur.com/yvmKVgu.jpg
got the heat exchanger mount finished up in 3D, and a pump mount that i didn't get pictures of. plate is getting cut today or tomorrow and should have it before the weekend!
https://i.imgur.com/vdJRhB2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NI7T7A7.jpg
i <3 friends with cool toys B-)
https://i.imgur.com/iuti6NE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KKsM8gv.jpg
Baby peez
09-24-2021, 11:32 AM
this made things go WAY better
I got one of these things and i was pretty disappointed in it. I always end up back with a wire cup and angle grinder for that kind of thing
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-Reciprocating-Saw-Wire-Brush-Attachment/1000060927
I do like your vacuum attachment though, I may have to try that
I got one of these things and i was pretty disappointed in it. I always end up back with a wire cup and angle grinder for that kind of thing
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-Reciprocating-Saw-Wire-Brush-Attachment/1000060927
I do like your vacuum attachment though, I may have to try that
i saw those after i did it!
i'll agree, the wire cup is 1000x better ... unless you are trying to get into tight spaces. the power brush go back in corners and inside cross members that cup never would have. i ended up doing the cup over the big areas after, made WAY less of a mess that way too.
xj_man_646
09-27-2021, 09:15 AM
Matt, why are you putting charge tube heat exchangers in a location where they won't see much air flow? Am I missing something?
Matt, why are you putting charge tube heat exchangers in a location where they won't see much air flow? Am I missing something?
because it was there or not at all.
the air down there should get circulated enough, just not force-fed. Six, 7" fans always on should pull a good volume thru them. we'll see how it plays out, but the suspension cross member should also be able to create a diverter to help keep the air fresh. worst case i add some more dividers to stop recirculation later.
xj_man_646
09-27-2021, 01:01 PM
Ok I didn't realize you planned for fans too. With fans it should be OK then.
Baby peez
09-27-2021, 01:12 PM
Ok I didn't realize you planned for fans too. With fans it should be OK then.
Thats because he didn't mention the 500a alternator he was going to put in to power all of his fans
Thats because he didn't mention the 500a alternator he was going to put in to power all of his fans
quad alternators man! that's why there's no room for air-to-air!
the 6 fans are 18amp total. not crazy, but not i'll have 2 relay's mounted to the fan banks to run them, with a power wire direct from the battery 2ft behind em.
but first, more real updates on the 55! last night i finished the cage mounts and got the whole mess into the chassis. wish i had gotten a picture of trying to prop it up into place, had straps n blocks on stools, was a contraption for sure. and of course, being me, i had to get it within 1/32" of my 3D :lol: :facepalm:
so the heat exchangers are still loose-ish in the cage, i built it slightly over-size to allow for a small padded seat AL to Steel. this also allows for a little flex in the mount with the chassis, hopefully without damaging anything.
https://i.imgur.com/0Lq6sRO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/l6OMCo7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ofVcZX1.jpg
BOOM! DONE!
i mean, as done as it's going to be until after assembly. the chassis is still missing f/r bumper mounts and rear hitch receiver. things that i need the bed on to get a complete look at to know where they go. to this point i've only confirmed that i'm pretty sure the bed will somehow fit if i cut some things up a bit, haha.
the big add last night was the Zip-Tie tabs, 39 in total. i had 31 welded to the chassis before i thought ... "i should check and make sure a ziptie fits in these". also kind of detailed out the other bits in prep for paint. one more fancy plate got holes drilled, and the LCA's got drain/rock escape holes on the back edge of the bag pockets. front edge will still push gravel if needed, but the back i wanted stuff to be able to get out.
https://i.imgur.com/Z9S1lxq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n8VFrsD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/svwb9yf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Qt6ouCq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2aQ9A95.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ioFVrC1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/btjWQNl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/L086MBN.jpg
xj_man_646
10-29-2021, 12:48 PM
Looking good
Well that got messy :lol: i still never found a better way than to squirt it out n finger paint with it.
She's sealed n ready, just needs scuffed, taped, n shot with LizardSkin.
https://i.imgur.com/2Vu2wIk.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/YldusP5.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/mKj0Z9i.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/x6MvSYu.jpeg
xj_man_646
11-01-2021, 10:38 AM
I've been watching blue collar kyle's body repair videos. He uses a seam sealer that gets applied with a little brush and a caulking gun if I recall correctly.
But I remember doing your method when working on my old Cherokee. Works, but is messy. Haha.
Life is too shot not to Hotrod :rock:
WOW, that took maximum effort. 12:30pm i started chipping spatter, 8:30pm i finished dragging tools back in.
So my tent showed up Monday night after i had a horrible day trying to paint the primer, just in time to mock me. then sitting in the team meeting Tuesday morning i was having an aneurism over the nice weather, told my boss i would try the work thing again today and left. cleaned up a lot more welding spatter i had missed until i could see it in primer, and scuffed the whole thing. neighbor came up n helped me set up the tent and move the chassis out, if it wasn't for him coming up when he did i'd have never gotten done. thank god for neighbors!
i've painted before, but not enough to feel proficient with it. that first gun of paint is feeling awkward, but i wanted to hit the "gotcha spots" that wouldn't get much paint unless specifically hit ... i had a lot of those. just a little into that i'm under the chassis spraying the suspension tube work and splash most of my paint out on my and the ground when the lid pops off. well i gota finish the paint that's left in it ... while my hand glues to the gun. i had to do a full clean up of myself and the gun to start again. back at it, spraying along, 3rd gun of paint and i'm back under the chassis, spraying the same spot, and i laid in the puddle of paint. now my shirt is gluing itself to me while i finish this gun, my armpit sticking together. i still have orange armpit hair :facepalm: :lol: after that i got a system going and couldn't be happier with the results!
https://i.imgur.com/zSdXtKO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3LtYGZd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nqyWc7q.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SqUTiqL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OpIvwym.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/y8VwFst.jpg
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