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Old 02-11-2009, 10:33 AM   #106
mcamish01
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jeezus!....what do the regular Creepys cost?
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:33 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcamish01 View Post
jeezus!....what do the regular Creepys cost?
msrp can be found on https://www.shopmaxxis.com/b2c

only comp creepy crawlers are:

40" - 815.59

regular creepy's:

38.5x16 - 566.66

40" - 713.62

so a little less

37" trepadors actually came down since i last looked, only 658.77 each now...ONLY....

comp tires suck to buy, it'd be nice if prices came down just a little...
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:55 PM   #108
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That ridiculous. Noone that actually needs em (high end comp guys) pays for em anyway. The general public does not need that sticky of a tire. They should just not sell comp compound to the public, and let any sucker willing to pay that price buy cheaper tires, and use the rest of the money saved to help stimulate the economy.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:11 PM   #109
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ummm....just FYI, I get Krawler Reds for sbout $425 ea. And they're SO worth the money.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:39 PM   #110
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I think the Maxix site had the 37's at 460.00 each if I remember correctly
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:47 PM   #111
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I think the Maxix site had the 37's at 460.00 each if I remember correctly
i feel like he had been talking about running 38.5's maybe he should just answer the question
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Old 02-11-2009, 02:13 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcamish01 View Post
i think the Krawler reds are cheaper and all the comp guys seem to think they work better in the wet.
Hmm, i've heard the opposite.
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Old 02-11-2009, 05:05 PM   #113
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really? One of the competitors I spoke with literally said he couldn't compete against Krawlers in the wet on his comp treps.
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:05 PM   #114
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Keep in mind, it snows up here. Ever wheel a Krawler in the snow?

Yeah, it sucks. You can keep that crap. And the outer tread ply starts cracking once you flex them hard in the cold.

I need something VERY multi-use. It needs to perform well on wet aggregate rock, dirt climbs, concrete, highway, jagged granite, coal mud, etc. It also needs to last a minimum of two years of mixed use. Comp compound in general gets shredded to **** up here, and yeah I'll make everything I try, but I'll be buying them again a season later.

I should have 'em either Friday or Monday at the latest. Either way I'll be spending the weekend trying to get rid of the IROKs...
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:07 PM   #115
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Buy a bunch of rope and then hang them in the local parks as tire swings.
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:18 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcamish01 View Post
really? One of the competitors I spoke with literally said he couldn't compete against Krawlers in the wet on his comp treps.
Wierd, I heard Krawlers blow in the wet. My treps don't have a lick of care whether it's wet or dry, they hook up the same. I might have a different compound than most though...
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:53 AM   #117
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i wish i had some good pictures or my 37 Krawlers that i just got rid of to my buddy for him to run.....they're only 6 years old and still hook up great for rock. Sounds like there are plenty out there to refute my claim, so i guess we'll see a good number of ya'll down here soon for comps.
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Old 02-13-2009, 01:41 PM   #118
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I should have 'em either Friday or Monday at the latest. Either way I'll be spending the weekend trying to get rid of the IROKs...
Oooh.

Just got confirmation that a big pile of rubber arrived at the shop.

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Wheelin '09...time to have fun.

Hammers: x
Rausch Creek: xxxxxxxx
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Old 02-13-2009, 01:50 PM   #119
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Like a kid waiting to leave for Disney land eh Chris
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Old 02-14-2009, 08:30 PM   #120
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Wheelin '09...time to have fun.

Hammers: x
Rausch Creek: xxxxxxxx
Uhwarrie 4x4cross: x
Line Mountain Miler: x
Big Dogs: x
RCRocs race: x (= dead xj)

Wheelin '10...time to go faster.
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Old 02-14-2009, 08:43 PM   #121
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Old 02-14-2009, 08:43 PM   #122
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oooh, mean!
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Old 02-14-2009, 10:16 PM   #123
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Looks really good! Is your steering bent? I like the front tube work a lot!
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:04 AM   #124
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I was wondering about that myself? All the new mods and you havnt fixed your bent lower link or steering?!?! Tsk Tsk....jk...Im guessing they dont pose that much of a problem correct? How did you bend that anyways...and whats it made of? Tie-rod that is. Was that part of the damage from the 4' ledge that claimed the straightness of your front frame rails?
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:52 AM   #125
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Quote:
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I was wondering about that myself? All the new mods and you havnt fixed your bent lower link or steering?!?! Tsk Tsk....jk...Im guessing they dont pose that much of a problem correct? How did you bend that anyways...and whats it made of? Tie-rod that is. Was that part of the damage from the 4' ledge that claimed the straightness of your front frame rails?
Once your rig is wheelin, what you'll eventually realize is the things that command priority for upgrading and repairing are the things that actually affect your perception from the driver's seat. My lower link(s) are all bent. The biggest one happened in November of '07. The tie rod I changed in March '08 and it bent in April '08 the first time it hit something. If you think mine's bad, you should see Timmay's...fact is, it's just not a big deal. I'll fix that when I'm not fixing things that actually impede wheeling, like crappy tires and a broken-in-half transfer case.

So for today, we start with this:



New beadlock hardware vs. old. 144 grade-8 bolts, 144 nylock nuts, 288 washers, $35. Gotta love bulk hardware pricing at Fazzios (~$2/lb.)

Grr.



Two down. This beadlock crap takes forever.

edit for clarification. 36 bolts per wheel x 4 wheels = 144 bolts. each wheel requires 4 complete torque cycles = 576 tightenings. These are to 15-20 ft-lbs max so an impact gun doesn't work, plus they're nylock so you need a wrench on the backside as well. Plus you need to undo all 144 existing fasteners, then use 4" bolts to start setting the beadlocks down on the wheel, then 3", then the final 2" bolts, which you have to reach under and start the nuts on the bolt threads 144 times before you can tighten them. Then you end up crawling around on the floor all day long to tighten them. I'm ****ing tired.



I like the pathetic worn-out, leaking-air Irok in the background.



Took a while, but all 4 are on.





Buncha little junk on the schedule for tomorrow.
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trail rig: '94 XJ, 14FF, D60, Nv4500, D300, NP231 doubler box, 38.5 Creepies, chopped, caged, MJ'd. Wheeling.

DD/tow: '05 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-speed.

Wheelin '09...time to have fun.

Hammers: x
Rausch Creek: xxxxxxxx
Uhwarrie 4x4cross: x
Line Mountain Miler: x
Big Dogs: x
RCRocs race: x (= dead xj)

Wheelin '10...time to go faster.

Last edited by Vetteboy; 02-15-2009 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 02-15-2009, 02:52 AM   #126
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Please don't put those goddamn fenders back on. . . I think it looks sexy the way it is now.
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:31 AM   #127
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so when is going on the trailer to head for CA, gotta be getting down to the wire by now
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:37 AM   #128
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I want creepys!!!!!
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:19 AM   #129
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Aw real tires aww....

On a side note.. http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=984862


So much for being original.
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:43 AM   #130
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Quote:
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Aw real tires aww....

On a side note.. http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=984862


So much for being original.

I saw that too Tim.

Chris, rig looks great. Theres a local u-pull here with plenty of fenders. I can grab you a set if you dont find anything local.
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Old 02-15-2009, 12:49 PM   #131
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Quote:
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Please don't put those goddamn fenders back on. . . I think it looks sexy the way it is now.
I'll be putting something on. It will likely start out being a stock fender, but will probably end up being a lot less than that...

Quote:
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so when is going on the trailer to head for CA, gotta be getting down to the wire by now
A week from today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmay View Post
So much for being original.
Just be glad you didn't do an MJ tailgate.

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Theres a local u-pull here with plenty of fenders. I can grab you a set if you dont find anything local.
I might take you up on that. I really don't want to buy a fresh set because they're just gonna get cut up anyway. Probably not until I get back from CA though.
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Wheelin '09...time to have fun.

Hammers: x
Rausch Creek: xxxxxxxx
Uhwarrie 4x4cross: x
Line Mountain Miler: x
Big Dogs: x
RCRocs race: x (= dead xj)

Wheelin '10...time to go faster.
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:10 PM   #132
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I have a set off a 98 Ill sell ya for a really good deal... shipping might suck tho...
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Old 02-15-2009, 03:12 PM   #133
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Quote:
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I have a set off a 98 Ill sell ya for a really good deal... shipping might suck tho...
White by any chance? If Chris passes on yours PM me.. i have a local who i need to find a set for.
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Old 02-15-2009, 05:53 PM   #134
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Nope... same color as timmay's jeep but ya could paint em!
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Old 02-15-2009, 11:39 PM   #135
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Yeah '98 isn't gonna help me...totally different lines where it meets the header panel. Thanks for the offer though.

New pics coming up...
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trail rig: '94 XJ, 14FF, D60, Nv4500, D300, NP231 doubler box, 38.5 Creepies, chopped, caged, MJ'd. Wheeling.

DD/tow: '05 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-speed.

Wheelin '09...time to have fun.

Hammers: x
Rausch Creek: xxxxxxxx
Uhwarrie 4x4cross: x
Line Mountain Miler: x
Big Dogs: x
RCRocs race: x (= dead xj)

Wheelin '10...time to go faster.
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Old 02-15-2009, 11:52 PM   #136
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As a start...May '07 vs. Feb '09:







Flexed out a lil bit. Looks like the tires fit perfectly.





A lot of people had asked about the air bumps interfering with the springs at full droop. Works out OK.





Full stuff is...interesting, but not bad. I'd rather have it stop the flex here and have some reserve for hard hits...Goatman over on NAXJA has said that if you can fully compress your bumpstops on flex alone your setup is too soft, so I think this is a good start:



Not sure how to make this geometry any better, but I think it's good enough for now.



From the back...



I ended up spending the afternoon getting the front headlight harness re-installed and also rotated the tie rod and re-aligned the hydro ram clamp so it's all straight again. We'll see how long that lasts.
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trail rig: '94 XJ, 14FF, D60, Nv4500, D300, NP231 doubler box, 38.5 Creepies, chopped, caged, MJ'd. Wheeling.

DD/tow: '05 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-speed.

Wheelin '09...time to have fun.

Hammers: x
Rausch Creek: xxxxxxxx
Uhwarrie 4x4cross: x
Line Mountain Miler: x
Big Dogs: x
RCRocs race: x (= dead xj)

Wheelin '10...time to go faster.
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Old 02-16-2009, 07:58 AM   #137
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The evolution definitely looks like its in the right direction to me! I feel your pain on the beadlock bolts, and I've got a friend who was shortsighted enough to buy differently backspaced front and rear wheels, so when he needs to rotate his tires he has to redo all 32 bolts per wheel. If your worried about the bump pads and their contact angle you could turn a low angle chamfer in them and that may help.
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:22 AM   #138
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Quote:
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Yeah '98 isn't gonna help me...totally different lines where it meets the header panel. Thanks for the offer though.

New pics coming up...
Dude, you just cut those lines off the header panel and replaced it with tube. They'll work...
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:24 AM   #139
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I thought about it a little more after I wrote that, and I agree...but I'd rather they go to someone who actually needs the '97+ pieces. I'm in no rush.
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trail rig: '94 XJ, 14FF, D60, Nv4500, D300, NP231 doubler box, 38.5 Creepies, chopped, caged, MJ'd. Wheeling.

DD/tow: '05 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-speed.

Wheelin '09...time to have fun.

Hammers: x
Rausch Creek: xxxxxxxx
Uhwarrie 4x4cross: x
Line Mountain Miler: x
Big Dogs: x
RCRocs race: x (= dead xj)

Wheelin '10...time to go faster.
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:56 AM   #140
Timmay
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True that. I do think they might slip under those tubes a little easier since the radius starts closer to the mounting tabs. That probably doesn't make sense, but you know.
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