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View Poll Results: which axle
35 spline the 60 4 14.81%
get the pig 14 51.85%
I wish I had a 9" ... 9 33.33%
Voters: 27. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 01-01-2006, 11:18 PM   #1
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Default what to do with the arse end

well heres what I have been thinking about

1. keep the 60 under it, get the spindles re worked and go 35 spline, with detroit. Gusset the crap outta everything

2. buy a 14 bolt, put my discs on it and weld on brackets. Throw detroit in it and get it shaved

3. build a 35 detroited or 40 spline spooled 9". put some discs on it

Just in the thought process right now
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Old 01-01-2006, 11:20 PM   #2
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nine or 14 bolt... just cuz i think 60s are over rated and teh 9 and 14 bolt have very nice carrier designs
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Old 01-01-2006, 11:21 PM   #3
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pig it you retard, cheapest and strongest...
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Old 01-01-2006, 11:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lubes
pig it you retard, cheapest and strongest...
I am sure thats what will happen... I have just been thinkin bout a pimped 9" back there lately
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Old 01-01-2006, 11:23 PM   #5
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chicks love the 9 inches.
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Old 01-01-2006, 11:24 PM   #6
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9" if you have the $$
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Old 01-01-2006, 11:26 PM   #7
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I'll take my 10.5 any day... the third ball, I mean pinion bearing, is what the girls love though. 60s are for fronts...
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Old 01-01-2006, 11:40 PM   #8
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niner
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:07 AM   #9
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yeah know what...I think I just ruled the 9 out. 8 lug is gonna be the problem with that
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
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niner
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nblehm
yeah know what...I think I just ruled the 9 out. 8 lug is gonna be the problem with that
Yeah, I just thought of that. No one can make a 9" shaft with a flange large enough for 8 lug. There is the spacer/adapter option.

Between the 60 and 14bolt, my choice would come down to end cost to get it going. Thought about an Eaton?
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Old 01-02-2006, 01:02 AM   #12
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well... 300 bucks to bored out the spindles (or weld 14 bolt spindles on) then 300 bucks for shafts and 500 something for the detroit

for the 14 bolt. 75 bucks for the axle. 60 bucks for the disc brackets, 300 something (I think) for the detroit. 100-200 to get it shaved. plus brackets
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Old 01-02-2006, 01:05 AM   #13
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D70?
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Old 01-02-2006, 01:07 AM   #14
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well I was thinkin about it, but the one I would want (70u) are like 300-500 bucks. I will prolly do the 14 bolt. Maybe just cut the lip off the bottom and call it good
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:55 AM   #15
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i got my 14 bolt with 4.56's for pretty cheap
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:56 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nblehm
well... 300 bucks to bored out the spindles (or weld 14 bolt spindles on) then 300 bucks for shafts and 500 something for the detroit

for the 14 bolt. 75 bucks for the axle. 60 bucks for the disc brackets, 300 something (I think) for the detroit. 100-200 to get it shaved. plus brackets
Do you need to shave and plate it for the 100-200$ it will cost to gain another 1/4 to 1/2"? If you aren't competing sawz-all that lower lip off and grind it to the bottom bolt hole. This is how I ran on my YJ for years and it works great. Save another couple hundred bucks.

On the new buggy the previous owner shaved it all the way up to and removed the bottom bolt... it leaks if it gets hit HARD/WEIRD he said but just hammer it back and call it good. (I`ve got a cool brace idea I think will stop it from hapening all together, and yes it has a beefier diff.)

If you are going to go 14b, and are interestedi nt he BluTorchFab 14bolt diff cover I have one for sale for $110 + shipping brand new too

I have some 14b disc brake brackets too i`ll let go uber cheap!

btw - I think you can tell what I voted for 14b all the way, cheap strong, and cheap for doing gears, locker, etc, etc.
-Todd
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Old 01-02-2006, 06:36 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane
i got my 14 bolt with 4.56's for pretty cheap
I dont care about you...or ask what you got
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Old 01-02-2006, 07:44 AM   #18
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i was thinkin 60, if you already got it geared. it's already setup right.

best option would probably be the 14bolt, but the 60 seems like it might make more sense.

i guess it depends on how big of tire you want to go...

is there a weight diff between the two? how much?
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyzj
i was thinkin 60, if you already got it geared. it's already setup right.

best option would probably be the 14bolt, but the 60 seems like it might make more sense.

i guess it depends on how big of tire you want to go...

is there a weight diff between the two? how much?
Going to 35 spline will need the gears to be setup again.
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:42 AM   #20
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Pimped nine.

Removable 3rd pnz you.
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:43 AM   #21
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Are you planning on running tires big enough to exceed what a set of chromoly shafts will get you?

Anything smaller than 40s is a waste of a 14FF or a Dana 70.

A 9" isn't worth it on a SWB vehicle... have to worry about your driveshafts and yokes too much.

You could always get another steer 60.
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:44 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatYJ
Pimped nine.

Removable 3rd pnz you.
8 lug shafts...
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath

A 9" isn't worth it on a SWB vehicle... have to worry about your driveshafts and yokes too much.
I'd hardly call his TJ SWB anymore.

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Old 01-02-2006, 10:48 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Static-XJ
8 lug shafts...
Fawk it, convert the front
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:51 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatYJ
Fawk it, convert the front
So you got a nine?
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:53 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Static-XJ
So you got a nine?
You didn't know that Andy?
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:55 AM   #27
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No.

They kick *** don't they? It'll be nice when I do the links not having to get a bridge to go over the chunk.

What are your plans? I'm going 35 spline spooled TrueHi9 with 5.14's. A lot of money I have to save up.
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:55 AM   #28
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pig it and forget it.
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:39 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Static-XJ
No.

They kick *** don't they? It'll be nice when I do the links not having to get a bridge to go over the chunk.

What are your plans? I'm going 35 spline spooled TrueHi9 with 5.14's. A lot of money I have to save up.
I thought for sure you and I talked about it. Don't you remember when I posted pics of my new axles in the back of the PhatYota?

Anyway..... my axle is already built, but a TruHi9 is the plan for the furture. Right now I'm just gonna run it the way it is.

It's got disc's, Moser 31sp shafts, ARB and 4.10's.
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:41 AM   #30
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^^ what Sport said ^^

Yur wasting time asking questions about your rig to people that don't even know what you have.
If someone says "anything less than 40s is a waste of a 14 bolt", they most not know that you have a 60 and 40s NOW, and break the 60 as it is. The 14 bolt will have a cheaper Detroit than the 60, you have breaks and only need breackets (cheap), you don't need to blow 180 bux you plate the bottom and gain like 1/2" clearance over my smooth bottomed 14er, it will come with the gears you want, it's STILL stronger than even a Dana 70, and I'm sure I could go on. You know how much I love these things. But consider, I know too, what your money situation is. You don't need bling crap, you need cheap and effective so you can stop worrying and move on to yur cage, and redoing the front suspension... Not to mention Moab, money for fixxxing anything that comes, a bender, and maybe some spare parts for the front.

So I repeat, DO WHAT SPORT SAID!!!
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:42 AM   #31
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TrueHi9 is pretty pricey, I'd be tempted to go with a high pinion D60.
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:47 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
TrueHi9 is pretty pricey, I'd be tempted to go with a high pinion D60.
TrueHi9 > HP60.
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:01 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Static-XJ
Going to 35 spline will need the gears to be setup again.
only the backlash though right? i guess if it's used and abused, might as well rebuild the whole thing though.
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:16 PM   #34
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Natey, i did the 35 spline 60 rear. Mine was already geared and set up, so to do the 14 bolt and set it up the same, it'd cost me just a bit more than than doing the 35 spline 60, and in the end, no one can say one way or the other which is stronger, 14bolt or 35 spline 60, plus you have more ground clearence with a 60 than a 14bolt. Yes you can shave a 14bolt, you can also shave a 60, so don't go there, in the end, you'll have the same clearence with em shaved. I would not bother with a 9". Yes they are strong, but you really need to dump some $$$ into them for it to last. The stock housing will grenade with 40" tires and low gears, so the 35spline shafts don't make much sense unless you go with a nodular housing. You'll also need to truss it, because the tubes are not all that thick.

I know a few guys down in Montrose and rifle that are running 40-42" swampers on 35 spline 60's with various types of V8's that have PLENTY of power. Most of them have been running this set up for over 3 years and not once have they broken a shaft, ring and pinion or locker. Alpine offroad bored my spindles and reset my new detroit for $300, and the Dutchman 35 spline alloys with a lifetime warranty were $850 delivered to my door with a new 35 spline detroit. I sold my old detroit and shafts for $350, so in end i paid $800 for the upgrade.

I couldn't do a comperable 14bolt for that price with 5.13's and a detroit. If i were building my rig all over again, i'd probably start with a 14bolt, but since my 60 was already geared and had brackets on it, i just stuck with the 60, and that's why i say you should do the same, don't bother with a 9" after all is said and done with building up a 9" beefed to hell, you're still stuck with a locker/carrier the size of a dana 44. Talk to tex about what lets go with that combo
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:24 PM   #35
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Quote:
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