2013 Ram 1500 Laramie - 5.7L w/ code P1004 - Short Runner Valve
 

So, it's thrown this code before, and now that it's no longer under warranty I need to figure it out so I'm not just constantly resetting it via my code reader.

Short Runner Valve
https://dodgeforum.com/how-tos/a/dod...lve-tsb-394660

What am I talking for work on this, anyone familiar? :dunno:

With that said, this is the longest I've ever kept a daily driver, looks like it's time to trade it in - that Gladiator needs to get here sooner than later :roflmao:

Was your truck affected by the TSB in your link TB-18-016-09?

If so, and if it did not have the corrective actions performed, sounds like that could be your issue.

If not, it still sounds like the SRV itself crapped out. I kinda doubt its the PCM itself as I would suspect that both banks would be effected, but I do not know the wiring on that.

Looks like its about a $200 part plus labor...no idea on that but you could find out if you wanted to subscribe to alldata...$25/year is well worth it for my truck.

Not familiar with the repair procedure but I'm struggling to understand why this thing exists at all...if its so beneficial why didn't they design the intake system to use this air path all the time? :confused:

I have other recall stuff being done on Tuesday, so I'll find out then.

What sucks is, I've had 2 exhaust manifold leaks repaired, one on each side, and thought my warranty went to 100k...well, nope, 5 years or 100k and I hit 5 years last April :banghead:

So, now it's all on me. Time to trade :lol:

All joking aside, I love this truck...and I've only had a few things done in any warranty timeframe - exhaust manifold leaks and a water pump. I have 99,550 on it right now...and wasn't planning on trading for the Gladiator even, wanted to save some money.

I'll have to dig into this, def want it fixed. My remote start hasn't worked all winter because of it, all summer either, from what I remember :squint:

Yeah that makes sense...as soon as the check engine light (MIL) comes on, OEM remote start won't work (at least on Chrysler products that I'm familiar with...2011+).

It's funny...most issues I've had with my cars lately I can youtube a repair video for...there is nothing I can find for replacing this valve on a 5.7 Hemi :lol:

Oh, even if it's reset, deleted, remote start won't work...hasn't worked for some time now since I reset it a long time ago. I'll just have to get it fixed and fully cleared.

It has come and gone before too...two weeks ago it went off by itself.

Thought it might be a gas thing at first, filled up the tank and it disappeared...then it came back later. It's intermittent...but this time it's stayed for a couple days.

You can get all the parts in TSB 18-003-10 for around $200. Assume a few hours tinkering in the garage and you could have it fixed in an afternoon.

Edit: looks like that TSB is for 2009 built vehicles only. Either way, without any circuit faults for the SRV and just P1004, I would assume the SRV only is at fault.

2009-present, that was a quick initial search, I'll dig more into it.

You are questioning using a variable length intake runner? Or just this design?

From what I understand, this is not a variable length runner, but when this valve is open, it bypasses the intake runners all together and air goes directly to the cylinder heads.

Maybe I don't understand it correctly, but why not make it the shortest run possible all the time?

Dem low speed torques. Dats why. :cool:

:dunno:

Everywhere I've read says that when these valves don't work, the engine feels low on power. Maybe there is some sort of fault reaction in the ECU which makes that more noticeable, but I still don't get it. There must be a reason these things aren't found on many other applications outside FCA :dunno:

I had a hard time finding a description but it seemed to me that it was an actuator that changed the routing on the intake manifold. Reports also indicated a lack of top end power, not power across the range.

That said, regardless of the actual mechanism, if this is a valve that effectively bypasses the runners or if it's just an actuator that moves the flaps in the runners, it's still acting as a variable length intake manifold.

Manifold design has a big impact on the power production on an engine. In general, long, skinny intake runners increase the air velocity, which helps at low RPMs with getting a lot of air into the motor. However, at high RPMs they become restrictive, you can't get enough air into the motor anymore, the pressure drop is too high for the velocity.

However, if you made it so it breathed better at the high RPMs you'd lose the torque at the low RPM. A manifold with both runner designs that can actuate between them, typically with butterfly valves on a actuating rod, gets the best of both worlds.

So, in short, you don't want the valve stuck open all the time because of....

A truck motor will lug around a lot better with long, skinny manifold runs!

My manifold studs broke too, I took it in to get fixed, had to wait 4 months to get into their heavy repair section. In that time the other side let go as well. He said it would have been about $850 if I had to pay for it out of pocket!!

Exactly, which is why I was pissed that my warranty ran out in April (5 years) and not 100k. Since this April will be my 6th year owning it..and likely last, I didn't want to dump any money into it :banghead:

It's the longest I've ever owned a daily driver, and my first new vehicle. I was contemplating keeping it, also, so who knows. It'll have 100k on it before the month is over, and has been relatively trouble free, as I've mentioned. I have a good mechanic now, guy down the road that has done some things for me very reasonably...so if I can't get to it in my cold ass garage, I can drop it off w/ him and expect to not get raped like at a stealership.

I forget what they're doing on Tuesday, it's just standard 'got a card in the mail' type update stuff...I'm leaving the light on so they see it, maybe they find the TSB and it's covered. If not, well...they either tell me what it costs, maybe they hear the exhaust leak and want to tell me about it and that it'll cost $X...to which I'll say, thanks, but I got a guy.

I fuggin HATE stealerships...especially when they have multiple locations and they charge different for parts at each one...and gouge the piss out of you on repairs. I digress.....


The Gladiator comes out in April, April is my 6th year of owning it (March, actually now that I remember) and it might just be a fitting time :p My wife will kill me if I still have the JK tho, and another truck :lol:

Coincidence :dunno:

Depends on how much you want to dive down the rabbit hole of a dealership service dept... but since it's a known issue, you may be able to either work something out with the service dept. directly, or possibly get FCA to cover a portion of the bill since you are fairly close to warranty end date and under the mileage limit.

YMMV

I fix those on the reg. As long as it's not on a 2500 ram or jeep those manifolds are wicked easy. And the studs usually just spin out.

Light went off on its own this weekend...after I filled up, probably coincidence...but it’s not on now.

How many drive cycles after filling up? The system needs to see 3 trouble free drive cycles in a row and will turn the light off on the 4th.

Interesting, dunno. I'll have to pay attention next time it pops on, if it still becomes an issue.