PolarYJ: NextGen
 

it's finally here!!! the moment i get to stop setting up the house/shop and get back to wrenching for the fun of it!!!

So the YJ is going under the knife again, but this time not just a restoration, i'm making changes. i built this configuration with the d44/12bolt back in about 2005. i put these specific IROK tires on it in Jan 2007. things have gone well! but 13yo tires are like driving on grease in the rocks, the 12b is machining it's own ring gear away, and the d44 is cracked and bent and bandaid'd in multiple places. no more spares or hold-overs, it's time for new.

Enter ... the 40s. i got a pretty solid deal on 6 40s that i couldn't pass up. not sure why i need/want 6, but that's what there was. no way i'm putting 40s on 1/2ton axles, so it's time for beef. rear axle is getting an exact duplicate of the full-float 9" in the TJ. same width, same components, just leaves vs links. simplify spare parts and the axle really does work well. front is just getting a GM Dana60, cuz the front is already a GM d44 and this should basically bolt-in. 5.38s, Yukon Competition Zip locker f/r (air operated normally spooled) rear is also getting another 2" of stretch via offset axle perches, and the front might get an inch somehow.

https://i.imgur.com/hEeQO7X.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jQFXRpa.jpg

last night i got the 12b out, shockingly everything came loose easy and it fell right out. the only surprise was that the slip in my rear drive shaft was bound up SOLID. glad that didn't break my t-case.

https://i.imgur.com/n1aZAnp.jpg

How is the tub doing these days?

Glad you came to your senses and are bolting in a GM D60 :lol:

hey, these axles were awesome for a LONG time ... all things considered, i'd not change the past.

a few years ago i did that "frame off" resto and fixed a LOT of the rust in the tub. not saying it's perfect or super pretty, but still more solid than i need to beat off rocks :thumbsup:

No, I meant vs. building a custom 60-9 for the front. Swapping a GM D60 makes way more sense IMO. I agree that the outgoing setup treated you pretty well.

Forgot about that other work you've done on the tub :thumbsup:

Hurry up and get this done...I'll be honest, want to see that truck progress more :lol:

Excited to see another build tho, I'll live vicariously through you since I have no patience, time or space :p

I got to ride in Steve's C3, so now you need to get this ready for Moab so I can take a peel in yours, too ;)

OOOHHHH, absolutely. for this jeep i the added weight actually makes sense too. i really need it down low n fwd to help me climb better.

so the YJ has to be trail ready for a run April 17th ... after that the '55 gets pulled back out for a summer project.

got the axle flanges and spring perches all set up last night and half burned in. tonight i hope to finish welding those and bend/weld on a matching tube truss to the TJ.

still missing shock mounts and the traction bar mount, but will probably install those with the axle bolted into it's final place. need weight on it for the traction bar and to flex it for the shocks.

also, these ruffstuff 2+ perches are awesome.

https://i.imgur.com/GqzE6Fc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IPGEkNg.jpg

I used their 1" offset mounts (really just perches with 3 holes drilled in them) for the j10.

i re-drilled an extra hole 1" offset into the 12bolt perches, so i only gained 2" from these. but should be just enough to keep the 40s off the body behind the door.

When you doing the round headline conversion :lol:

:roflmao:

Sure it is, I just Googled it and look what I found :lol:

https://youtu.be/N_p0VoUIAmY

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/be/b7...5fcfe4d09b.jpg

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

Cutting will be required :lol:

i got the flanges and perches fully welded last night, then built and 50% welded the truss. it's the same link mount truss i put on the TJ since i had a spare plate already cut and the tube lying around. pretty sure it wasn't needed, and pretty sure it isn't adding a whole lot of extra structure, but the plate actually ended up basically dead level with the spring perches!

https://i.imgur.com/8ejIVFh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CyupscA.jpg

i don't know, B ... that might be worse than the angry eyes!

Yeah, I'd go w/ it's actually worse than an angry grill myself :yuk:

Honestly, had to rib a bit...I had a YJ, loved it!!! While the square lights veered from the original look of the SWB, I still wholeheartedly believe that the grille should simply not be messed with...factory all the way. Be it any model out there, it stays ;)

what ya think B, 40s on the 55?

it happened, i got em on there this weekend. the stupid Chineseium wheel bearings didn't fit, and no one local had any better, so i ended up scavenging the Timken's from the front 60 :lol:

love the new departure angle, not super excited to go to a mini-comp-cut to make them fit. but i'll make ti look good i hope. with the tire and slightly taller spring perches, the frame gained 4 full inches of clearance. now i have 13.5" under the diff, 24.5" at the skid, and 28" at the frame. i kind of wish it was a little shorter maybe.

left it all stripped n ready for the front 60, just need to sort a few things out first. drill n re-tap the spring plate stud holes, new center pins in the springs, and both fixed spring hangers have rips in them. so getting new HD hangers, mounting them 1" fwd, and re-drilling the center pin holes on the axle 1" off. the shackles were quite vertical, so they shouldn't even notice extra inch.

https://i.imgur.com/886KbE7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1CkNzF7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rOWGe3Y.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/svhm1uy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bhQ26fk.jpg

:lol:

I'd be as good w/ the 40s as I would w/ the low rider...but those really belong on the Jeep ;)

That departure is pimp as hell!

Ok, when ya gonna hit the trail w/ some of us :dunno:

ASAP!!

seriously though, this summer will probably be local shake-downs and re-learning, along with rebuilding the savings. but i REALLY want to get out and do some new stuff bad. i REALLY want to get out west. moab would be like $1500 in fuel, maybe i can find a passenger who would like to split some of that.

:chug:

so tonight i'm going to run go carts with guys from work, and tomorrow i need to spend with the wife cuz i'm out of town wed/thrus nights, before a buddy shows up friday night from out of town. so nothing more is going to happen til next week.

i did order what i think is everything i need to get the d60 bolted in 2" fwd of before. bolts, taps, mounts, etc, so next weekend will hopefully see some good progress.

:rock: looks good man.

Are you going to run a axle wrap bar? Curious if mounting the axle center line that far back on the springs will make it wrap

so the reviews i saw on these perches all claimed less wrap with them. basically making the lever arm of the perch longer to resist it. on that note however, i will without question be running an anti-wrap bar! had one before, (you can actually see it hanging under the jeep) it really makes a difference when bound up or climbing.

i'm going to re-make the bar though. i bought new axles mounts that have more separation to hopefully lower the forces in the bushings a bit, along with the 2" stretch. i'll at least re-use all the old bushings and just re-tube it, it's already been cut and spliced 2 other times.

She's looking really good

well, made a little progress over the weekend once i got back from the work trip. i need my high steer arms to show up, and i need to clean up the 60 really good with the new kingpin hardware / paint.

so the axle basically bolted in where the GM d44 had been, but it wasn't that easy. first thing was to drill/tap the spring plate housing bolt holes for 3/4-16 to more easily make studs and to be stronger, then i didn't realize that side spring plate wasn't symmetrical and fought that for a while. next, both of my spring hangers were starting to rip, along with wanting to push them fwd, so they got replaced and moved 1.5" fwd. the longer shackles are still 45deg or less at max angle without moving the shackle pivot. also re-drilled the center pin hole in the spring perches by 1", for a total of 2.5" front stretch over both stock and what i was running prior. now 5.5" over stock for a nice 99" wheelbase.

https://i.imgur.com/uih1Nz0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/c8Q4nID.jpg

Do you think you'll need to relocate your steering box with the front stretch?

undecided so far ... still waiting on parts to come in for the test fit. i ordered these high steer arms. my current plan-A would be a tie rod or double-ended ram that runs JUST under the leafs, mid connector bolt. the drag link could then run to the top of the arm over the leaf. let them live over top of each other but separated enough to never contact.

https://www.fourwheelsupply.net/coll...kle-tie-in-kit

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...G?v=1571438596

ULTIMATE goal ... is the 4500 style steering. servo to the double ended ram with a manual steering box and drink link still connected in.

Do you want to maintain a mechanical connection just for the bling factor, or are there rules at play for whatever comps you plan to join? If you're already debating a double ended ram, I'd just go full hydro and never worry again.

i'm really not sure on the steering rules for RC Rocks ... i should look into that.

the double ended ram makes all the sense in the world for power of steering, it's time, i need that. but having driven a full hydro rig back to camp while being towed, it SUUUUUXXXX. to that end, everyone i've talked to who has run the 4500 style has said the same thing. it has the steering feel and feed back of mechanical steering while racing, but the power of full hydro in the rocks. that just sounds pretty awesome.

also one more thing a cop couldn't hit me with if i drive this to work at some point. i do have a plate :lol:

:dunno:. Correct me if I am wrong, but the majority of 4400 rigs run full hydro, so there has to be a reason they don't bother with the mechanical linkage in the fastest class. Not that I think you should change your plans...do what you want :lol:.

Street driving makes some sense. I did see a full hydro steering 1 ton JK on 42's at the Tilted Kilt when I lived in MI, but I'm pretty sure he is generally OK because most of the cops around the Detroit metro have bigger fish to fry than the steering setup on a Jeep :lol:

yeah, the complete lack of any fawks given in MI i miss ... "oh it has a plate? keep driving" ... "oh, you have a title from something you bought? good enough"

i think the biggest thing is with a 4-link double-triangulated front suspension vs the steering. the 4-link travels vertical, where the drag link would want to push with compression like a panhard bar. a nice full travel hit would swing the steering a bit with the 4500 style steering. i'm on leafs and a little bump steer doesn't matter to me ... 110mph across the lake bed, i'd care.

I think it was Kurt on here who ran mechanical steering with a front 4 link and had no bumpsteer. Pretty sure that was the setup on his TJ.

I guess your logic could make sense though. Didn't think of that aspect.

The other part of full hydro that is attractive to me is no restrictions regarding the steering box or fighting between panhard and draglink lengths / angles (not that it is overly difficult to overcome, but things can get interesting once you start stretching wheelbase more than a couple inches)

if you don't have crazy travel, and set the draglink set up JUST below flat at ride height, there's no reason it should be noticeable on the street. theoretically leaves without a panhard bar should act the same, or worse since the axle can move side to side some.

i feel like it's one of those "in good practice" kind of ideas that is only really an issue at the extremes. like when using 18" of axle vertical travel at 100mph. my 45mph, 10" of travel jeep probably couldn't care less.

smashed out some fab stuff Friday, then cleaning and painting when i had a change to get out there the rest of the weekend. getting close enough i can taste it ... just need my axle guts order to show up.

https://i.imgur.com/Bi41zCx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FaIsa51.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Rdiw1LZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AC4rwWM.jpg

I'm always impressed with your pace of projects. When you get time you knock a bunch of stuff out :rock:

I vote 4500 steering, because I want to see how it works. Also I think you are right on in your thinking in your comment with bump steer. 2-5" of road travel no big deal. 100 mph suspension travelling 18" big deal.

It's been a long time since i have driven something with full hydro but i didn't mind it at all. The only time it really sucked was when the engine died and you have to steer that bitch out of a trail. End up with popeye forearms.

Thanks! it feels so good to be back at it. my hands are cut up, i have metal splinters, grease i can't wash off that soaked into dry skin, etc. plus the fact that i feel more limber, and my endurance is coming back up off of none to a bit.

right now real steering is on hold, i need to get all the axle guts ordered and see what cash i don't have left.

Bitchin...man, I wish I took that same initiative. Since driving back from CO a few years ago, on a trailer no less, and a bunch of road spray nailed all my undercarriage and turned to instant rust.

It literally went from a brand new vehicle to look like a winter driven rust ride instantly...and it had NEVER been on a winter road :squint:

I'd love to tear it down, respray, etc...but I'm just too damn lazy, and don't have the space I'd like to do it in.

Really appreciate seeing other's work tho, damn that stuff is nice!

and this is why i put them away in that weather.

you don't need to tear anything apart, you just need a wire brush, an air hose, and ChassisSaver!! (then a top coat of rustoleum cuz it's not UV stable)

i'm really in a holding pattern now til i can get the axle guts i need. hopefully the axle gear install is a quick turn around local