First off, jack up the back of the Jeep, support it on jack stands, and remove the rear wheels. Make sure the parking brake is NOT on, otherwise you'll never get the drums off.

If this is the first time your drums are being serviced you'll need to remove the "spring nuts" that hold the drums on. These are used in the factory to hold the drums on during assembly, so just throw them away, you won't need them anymore. Now pull the drums off. If they don't want to come off easily, a few light whacks with a hammer should loosen them up.

Inspect the inside of the drums. If the drums are scored or rough, you'll need to have them turned. Most auto parts stores should be able to do this for you for pretty cheap. My drums looked fine so I didn't bother with having them turned.

Once you get the drums off you should see a scene like this. Grab a can of brake cleaner and spray the brake assembly down to clean it. Caution: brake shoes contain asbestos so never use compressed air to clean the brakes and avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface. Just to be on the safe side I wore a filter mask while I cleaned out the brake assemblies.

Now it's time to start taking apart the brakes. First remove the shoe spring shown here, just above the adjustment starwheel. I found a pair of needle-nose pliers works pretty good for this job.

Next unhook the adjuster cable from the adjuster lever and remove the adjuster lever. A repair manual (Chilton's, FSM, etc.) will show you exactly what these are.

Next remove the shoe return springs. These are pretty strong little springs, so I'd recommend wearing eye protection, just in case. There is a special tool available at most auto parts stores design specifically for removing these springs. I found that a pair of lock pliers worked better for getting the first spring off though.

If you look in the bottom right corner of this photo, you can see the adjuster cable hanging loose.

The brake spring removal tool (about $6 at AutoZone) worked great for getting the second return spring off the anchor pin, but you could use lock pliers for this spring also. The adjuster cable will come off the anchor pin once you remove the second return spring. The guide for the adjuster cable is hooked on this return spring, so don't worry about taking the cable guide off the spring.

One end of the brake spring removal tool is used for removing the springs, the other end is used for putting the springs back on, you'll see how later on.

Now it's time to remove the holddown spring retainer. There is also a special tool just for this job (about $6 at AutoZone), but it doesn't work well on the Dana 35's drum brakes. I ended up using a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the retainers. The retainers twist-lock onto holddown pins that go through the support plate and the shoe itself.

Once the retainers are removed the shoes should fall right off, so watch out. Remove the leading shoe first and pull out the parking brake strut and spring before moving on to the trailing shoe.

This is what it should look like once all the shoes, springs, and cables have been removed. The parking brake cable lever hooks into the shoe you just removed. You can see the parking brake cable lever hanging in this photo.

Now is a good time to hose down the assembly with brake cleaner so you have a nice, clean assembly for your new shoes. Again, watch the dust, I put the filter mask back on to clean the assembly again.